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Pen Problems

New MessagePen Problems (modified 0 times) scybuch
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I am having trouble with my mouse, after my 1200 warms up a bit the mouse goes crazy, I don't even have the pen out of the holster. It moves all over the screen and moves stuff and opens stuff. When I do have use the pen on the screen it works fine, but as soon as I take it away from the screen it starts all over again. Anyone else having this problem?
Steve
06-01-2001 05:58:49

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Sparkfel
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I've noticed the same thing, after the 1200 runs for several hours, ocassionally the mouse pointer arrow goes crazy and does exactly as you describe. Rebooting seems to stop the madness, but even then the "jitter" rate of the pen afterwards is so bad that handwriting recognition is worthless. On mine this seems to be related to using the external power supply. If I unplug the unit and run it on the battery, the jitter goes away. Plug the power supply back in and the jitter comes back. Turn off the system for several hours and the symptoms go away. This has happened to me three times in the last week.
06-01-2001 10:03:19

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) yellow1
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No pen problems here, although that thing runs VERY hot, can barely touch it, so I wouldn't be surprised if some problems arise at some point.
06-01-2001 10:43:14

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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I've encountered the same problem and also think it's related to the heat -- it never seems to happen when the unit is cool (at least to me).
06-02-2001 17:04:48

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) scybuch
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So, has any one come up with any solutions? Mine works fine as long as the pen is pointing at the screen. Maybe was can make the hotpad disable the pen and re-enable the pen!? Any thoughts?
Steve
06-02-2001 20:42:46

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) reldridg
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Is there any way to adjust the time out on the pen? I remember reading some palce that the stylus turns off after 2 mins of inactivity or something. THere might be a way to adjust that I am not sure.

Also when are people having heating problems? I get heat build up when I have the unit on a cloth surface or flat on a table. When I leave the unit on my picture frame stand it doesn;t heat up nearly as much.

Also maybe something like COOL CPU or one of those programs might work.

Reldridg

06-03-2001 11:02:51

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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I don't think adjusting the time-out on the stylus (if possible) would help much - you'd still need to keep the pen near enough for the screen to sense it all the time, which is a hassle.

My 1200 definitely heats up more quickly when I'm holding it, or if it's sitting flat on it's back, or if I try to use it while it's recharging, but even just sitting in the picture frame stand doing nothing it eventually heats up enough for this problem to surface (after about 4-5 hours, vs about 2 hours in my lap). IMHO the location of the heat sink ports was not well thought out, since a) heat rises - so why the heck did they put it on the bottom? and b) it's nearly impossible to sit this thing in your lap and not cover up the vents. I'm wondering if there's any way to improve the heat dissipation - like drilling some vent holes in the top or something. I like the idea of Cool CPU too - I'll give that a try first.

06-03-2001 12:48:16

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) jim52
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I'm in the same boat as everybody else. I'm going to try out some of these programs and see if they help:

http://www.notebookreview.com/coolcpu.html

-jim

06-03-2001 13:16:31

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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I just installed Waterfall Pro 2.99, so will report on whether or not it helps any after I've run it awhile. I'm interested to see how this affects battery life as well.
06-03-2001 17:54:28

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Sparkfel
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I have been running RAIN since the day I got the 1200. I consider it an essential program on battery operated computers running Win 9X as not only does it make the processor run cooler it also extends battery life. My testing has shown that RAIN makes a pentium class processor run as much as 14 degrees F cooler at low duty cycles and about 4 degrees cooler when heavily tasked. Note that NT, Windows 2000, Win ME, and OS/2 will not benefit from a program like Waterfall or Rain, because they already issue HLT commands on idle CPU command threads.

In spite of running RAIN, I still have the problem noted. But as I pointed out, it only happens when running from the external power supply; so I don't think it's totally heat related. Unplugging it from the external PS doesn't take the heat away immediately, but it does clear the symptoms right away.

06-03-2001 22:42:31

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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I ran Waterfall most of yesterday, and agree that although this program definitely appeared to help the cursor thingy (and did seem to extend battery life), it didn't cure the problem. I'm still inclined to suspect heat as the primary culprit, but there may be other contributing factors. If it is heat related I wonder if this was a problem in new units too. This problem renders my unit practically unusable after a few hours, due to the uncontrolled cursor activity when the pen isn't near the screen; I can't believe Fujitsu could have gotten away with that. On the other hand, I probably run mine harder and longer (at a stretch) than it was ever run at the Insurance company it came from; but I still have a hard time believing that I'm exceeding design parameters.

One interesting observation: I noticed that when the problem is just starting to appear I can make it instantly worse by squeezing the bottom or left side - areas where I normally hold the unit, and coincidentally (or not?) areas where it seems to get the hottest. Holding the unit from the upper left side, or propping it up on the lower right corner helps forestall the problem from getting worse as rapidly as it otherwise would.

06-04-2001 10:06:37

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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Sorry - what I meant to say is that Waterfall definitely appeared to extend battery life, and seemed to help the cursor thingy (it didn't happen as quickly), but didn't solve the problem completely. I agree with Sparkfel that it's probably worthwhile to run one of these programs if you're running Win 95/98. I was most concerned about the system slowing down, but if it did it wasn't noticeable (although I haven't run any benchmarks).
06-04-2001 10:14:04

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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Sorry - what I meant to say is that Waterfall definitely appeared to extend battery life, and seemed to help the cursor thingy (it didn't happen as quickly), but didn't solve the problem completely. I agree with Sparkfel that it's probably worthwhile to run one of these programs if you're running Win 95/98. I was most concerned about the system slowing down, but if it did it wasn't noticeable (although I haven't run any benchmarks).
06-04-2001 10:27:23

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) thnkgrn
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Running ME on mine. Love it. How do you do a right click though? I did a search, but no dice. OBTW, if you run the Neomagic driver that comes with Me, you get full 16 bit color (without any type of artifacts.
06-06-2001 06:44:09

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) yellow1
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Right-click - press the white button on the pen !

What do you mean, no artifacts ? Win98 also has 16bit drivetrs but as pointed it out here
http://www.linux-hacker.net/cgi-bin/UltraBoard/UltraBoard.pl?Action=ShowPost&Board=FujitsuStylistic1200&Post=17&Idle=0&Sort=0&Order=Descend&Page=0&Session=yellow1.99184244189781

, the screen is actually 4,096 colors, so I doubt WinMe will help with that limitation.

06-06-2001 08:50:37

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) thnkgrn
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I saw that post as well.

All I can tell you is that with the Neo driver, ME shows it as a 16 bit. It LOOKS like 16 bit, but who knows for sure. Not having much luck with the white button. Got it to do it one time though. I wonder if it is better to have the tip depressed on the screen, or just touching? Oh well, will keep playing with it.

Thanks for the great tone of your response BTW

Thnkgrn


"And in the end, the love you take is equal to the love you make"
06-06-2001 09:23:38

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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You must depress the pen tip while holding down the button in order to register as a right-click; it's not like a Wacom pad, where simply pressing the button alone is a right-click. Since I'm a long-time Wacom user this took me awhile to get used to.

I'm intrigued by your assessment of the display quality using "16-bit" setting under WinME. Out of curiosity, is this in direct comparison to the same settings under Win98? Again, although the technical specs indicated that the LCD is only capable of displaying 4k colors, I'm still not certain whether or not this is due to some physical limitation rather or simply something to do with drivers. On the one hand I have to wonder why, if the screen is capable of displaying true 16-bit color, wouldn't Fujitsu have released it as such? But on the other hand ePods did exactly that, so it's not without precedent.

Back on topic, has anyone made any progress in diagnosing and fixing this pen problem? I confess that for me it's marring an otherwise positive overall experience with the 1200.

06-06-2001 11:09:02

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Pat the Hack
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On my Toshiba T200CS Dynapad there is a registry entry for affecting the barrel button behavior (i.e. whether or not the pen tip needs to be depressed to signal a right click). I wouldn't be surprised to find something similar for the Stylistic.

On topic, here is a potential clue: my Stylistic 1OOO has recently started exhibiting a similar behavior without being hot. I have found that by squeezing its (slightly flimsier) case I can make it stop. This leads me to believe that it is a "connection" problem. Perhaps the heat is causing some distortion & tightening up some screws may help?

06-07-2001 00:32:44

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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That's interesting - when mine is just warm, but not as hot as it typically is when the jitter usually starts, squeezing the case makes it worse.

Another piece of datum: last night I noticed a similar problem in the bios setup, after I had been using the unit awhile and the crazy pen syndrome had already shown up in Windoze. I rebooted and launched pen setup (by double-tapping before Win loaded), and while I was in the bios setup I noticed that menus were being randomly highlighted and clicked (even though the onscreen cursor wasn't moving, since the pen doesn't work at that stage of boot-up). I'm assuming this means that Windows drivers aren't the problem, since Windows wasn't even loaded.

Pat the Hack's probably on to something, but I'm also wondering if this could be a symptom of some component nearing the end of its useful life? I still can't believe that this problem existed in new units - so what could have loosened, or gotten worse with age, that would affect the pen sensor/controller/doohicky?

06-07-2001 09:32:52

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 2 times) JunkLeo
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the pen works in my 1200 bios setup. I don't need Kb to change the settings.
06-07-2001 09:58:46

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) JunkLeo
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from
http://www.mobilityconcepts.com/support/stylistic_2300_faq.htm

Why is the cursor moving erratically? It was working fine before.

The batteries in your pen may be low. The Stylistic 500 pen requires three Model 393 silver oxide batteries. The Stylistic 1000, 1200, and 2300 pen requires a single AAAA-size alkaline battery. Both of these types of batteries can be found at most stores that carry camera or watch batteries.

06-07-2001 10:38:45

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Pat the Hack
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I had seen that on the Fujitsu site, but it doesn't explain the problem occuring once the unit heats up, also doesn't account for the mechanical aspect (squeezing the case altering behaviour), and to top it off, the first thing I did when my 1000 started acting up was replace the pen battery, then I tried other pens. Still same problem. Good call, but I think it's not the answer.

On a side note, here's the registry entry that let the barrel switch do a right click without depressing the tip:

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Pen]

"CharPriority"="0"

"BarrelEvent"="1"

06-07-2001 11:33:08

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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Initially I also changed the pen's battery, but to no effect. The erratic behavior occurs when the pen isn't near the screen, not when it's within range. If the pen were at fault you'd expect to see that reversed - i.e., erratic behavior when the pen is near the screen, not out of range.
06-07-2001 13:13:19

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) scybuch
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BTW I took mine apart and made sure everything was tight(all the connections). They all looked good, I even unplugged them and re-inserted them, still the same problem. The screen has two plugs, one for the display and one for the (well what I guess to be for the) touch screen. They both are plugged in really well.
Steve
06-07-2001 17:53:21

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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I just tried Pat the Hack's registry entry for the barrel button (thanks!) Although it works great, I think the button gets depressed when you put the pen back in the pen slot/holder/thingy. Sometimes when I stick it in now, it acts as if I've right-clicked on the desktop. Frankly I think I can live with that - I like not having to click & tap anymore (thanks again!!)
06-07-2001 22:11:44

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) scybuch
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Ok, so we know its a heat problem, but with what, is it the backlight, the hard drive, or the CPU? When I opened the case the last time I put an extra heatsink in for the CPU and now the screen doesn't get very hot at all. I got a chance to play with it for an hour, which is long enough for mine to start the jitter problem, and everything was fine. I will mess with it alot longer tomorrow and let everyone know how it goes.
Steve
06-08-2001 21:16:50

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) scybuch
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Well, that seems to have solved the problem! I used it all day today in my work truck and it got up to 110 today and no pen problems at all.
Steve
06-09-2001 17:08:56

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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What kind of heatsink did you put into it? I haven't opened mine up enough to see the CPU, but I assumed there wasn't enough room in there for a standard heatsink.

I had thought about buying a PCMCIA cooling fan, but that would eat up the battery more quickly, and the only ones I could find stuck out so far I don't think I could have used it with my wireless card. The heatsink would be a more elegant solution.

06-09-2001 19:35:41

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) scybuch
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I used a small heatsink off a tiny cpu fan and cut it in half, inside the case you can't see the cpu its in between the two pcb's, but there is a small curved shaft that is connected to the cpu and comes out to the vented area. Thats where it is connected to a "L" shaped piece of metal(they call this small piece of metal the heatsink). This is where I placed the two pieces of heatsinks with thermal tape (two sided tape that transfers heat), then I drilled alot more vents into the bottom of the case, you might have to grind a little plastic out of the way to get the new heatsink to fit. I can post some pix if you want.
Steve
06-09-2001 20:50:12

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) jim52
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Please post pics if you can - that would help me.

Thanks,
jim

06-09-2001 21:16:23

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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Yeah, some pics would be helpful.

Damn, it's never easy is it?!

06-09-2001 22:40:17

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 5 times) scybuch
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Nothing special, I just created it this morning.
heatsink pix
Steve
06-10-2001 07:51:23

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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Steve,

Thanks. That actually doesn't look too hard after all. I suppose finding the right heatsink will be the most difficult part - what were the approximate dimensions of the heatsink you used, before you modified it?

I'm assuming from the pics that although you dissasembled it quite a bit, this was only to show some of the components that would otherwise be hidden from view, and it should really only be necessary to take off the back cover in order to expose the existing heatsink - is that correct?

Also, I can't help but wonder - it looks like there might be connections between the CPU and conduit, and/or between the conduit and OEM heatsink that, if loose, would aggravate the problem. But I think you said that you had checked all the connections and they were fine.

Thanks again for your description and pics.

06-13-2001 11:48:33

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 1 times) scybuch
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Yea, all the connections were all good, the conduit slides in and out a little (between the conduit and the cpu) but you can feel the thermal greese as you slide it back and fourth. The conduit is crimped to the oem heatsink so its tight. All you have to do is remove the back cover and you can get to the OEM heatsink. My heatsink is about 1.5 x 1.5 inches and about 0.5 inches thick (before I cut it in half). I got it from fry's, its a U.S Toyo Fan with heatsink, I just took the fan off. Model :ustf401012mw
Steve
06-13-2001 14:15:24

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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FYI, last night I drilled some holes in the case down by the OEM heatsink (similar to what scybuch did) just to see if the additional circulation might improve heat dissipation, and although it appears to have made a minimal improvement, after a few hours I still get crazy pen syndrome. I'm still looking for a mini heatsink to adapt - looks like I might have to order one online.
06-14-2001 10:08:33

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) tcbordp
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Anyone looking for heatsinks might want to try All Electronics. Here is the link to the heatsink section

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=270&type=store

There are also a couple in the new items list. For the prices you could buy several and see what works best. If someone finds a good fit let us know here.

PeteB

06-14-2001 13:55:39

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Drogue_Anathema
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O.K. - just wanted to say that I've completed Scybuch's heatsink mod, and can confirm that this solves the pen problem. I managed to find a 38mm X 38mm X 10mm mini heatsink which, when cut in half, fits the OEM heatsink perfectly. As Scybuch mentioned, you do need to do a little bit of grinding inside the case to make it fit (there are two small plastic flanges that normally hold the OEM heatsink flush against the vent holes. They need to be cut back about half-way in order to close the case after the heatsink has been added), but I didn't find this difficult to do with a Dremel tool and appropriate bit. All told, the mod took about 20 minutes (excluding drilling new vent holes, which I had done earlier), the hardest part being cutting the heatsink in half.

Works like a charm. I ran the thing hard for several hours on battery, then ran it while recharging (which usually causes it to heat up more). Started to notice a little bit of the problem towards the end, but nowhere near as bad as before, and I doubt it will occur at all now during "normal" use. As Scybuch reported, the screen and back of the unit don't get nearly as hot now, and I noticed that it appears to cool down much more rapidly. I didn't drill nearly as many new vent holes as Scybuch, but seems to be fine. My mod essentially looks identical to the pics he posted, with that exception.

FWIW, I found the heatsink at http://www.pactech-inc.com/ Although I don't think they normally sell retail, I convinced a sales droid to send me just one (she kept asking me what multiple of 50 I wanted to buy). Under $5.00 for heatsink and shipping. The model I bought was PA-HS17. It came with a tiny square of thermal tape, which I replaced with my own.

Now I can finally start really enjoying it! Wonder why Fujitsu didn't do something like this to begin with - it really does make a difference.

06-18-2001 23:56:35

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) Greenspark
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While going through a box of spare parts, I picked up my old i-opener heatsink and noticed if you cut off a piece about the size of the 1200's heat sink, it will fit in the space under the cover and get the job done. So if you have one of these sitting around, taking a slice at it may not be a bad idea.
06-21-2001 17:27:12

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) KomputerKen
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One thing I have considered trying to keep the CPU cooler is to remove the original, white thermal compound and apply Artic Silver II. I dissected a unit with the infamous flaky pen problem and noticed that the white thermal compound on the bottom of the CPU core was blotched instead of having a 100% coverage. I evenly spread the compound but have not yet tried the unit. Common sense tells us that a greater coverage equals better heat dissipation. Has anyone else experimented with a different thermal compound on the CPU?
07-12-2001 00:17:14

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) lnspy
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I tried installing the extra heat sink and got positive results. Instead of getting pen jitter at unpredictable times, I now encounter the phenom after about one hour of hard use and with heat sink surface temp measuring 115F. If I squeeze the case in the lower left corner the jitter stops but returns when I release the pressure. If I put the system in suspend while I squeeze the case the jitter does not return when I take it out of suspend. I think there might be a problem with thermal expansion of the original heat sink which the piggy-back sink altered. I'm going to try letting one end of the heat sink "float" and see if the jitter problem goes away.
10-30-2001 18:16:26

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) snaussage
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I'm wondering if anyone has tried directing some of the heat to the pot-metal? metal chassis that the original heatsink is screwed onto? Maybe polishing the surfaces between the heat sink and it's mounting spot, and maybe even using some locktite on the heatsink screws... I noticed that mine wasn't entirely tightened down when I took it off.

Dan K

10-30-2001 19:17:11

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) moeby1
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The pen on my fujitsu stylistic 1200 has quit. I need to know where to buy one and what is a fair price for one.
11-03-2001 23:51:04

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) lnspy
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Replacement pens are available on eBay for about $40.
11-05-2001 08:56:15

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) lnspy
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I tried installing "Waterfall" after altering the heat sink with the intention of lowering the temperature threshold where jitter occurs. The results were neutral. I still get the same temp profile as before. Maybe Win95, version B, already contains HLT commands like Win98. Anyway, a deadend.
11-06-2001 10:34:16

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) lnspy
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I think my digitizer is going bad. The extra heat sink stabilized the problem for a while but now the jitter can occur on start up with the unit cold. It (the jitter) still stops when I squeeze the case so I'm not totally certain it's the digitizer. Has anyone replaced the digitizer? If so, how? and where did you get one?

Jim

11-13-2001 23:20:20

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) YouBecha
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Digitizer?

I have been running my highly modified fuji mounted in the dash of my truck for quite a while now. I removed the stock heatsink/pipe thing and used thermal tape to stick a 1 inch wide 2 inch long heatsink onto the cpu base.

I have had pen problems twice. One from booting up with a serial device connected that windows tried to install as a mouse.

The second time is because the backlight leads ran too close for too long next to the pad input (behind the screen)

As long as the backlight leads are correctly routed, and it doesn't boot with a serial device connected...it works perfectly.


http://www.geocities.com/mr_bubba_zanetti/
11-14-2001 20:40:54

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) lnspy
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During a fit of temporary insanity I called a Fujitsu service center to see if they had a solution to the jitter problem. Their stock answer seems to be "replace the digitizer" for about $100. That's why I put my digitizer question on the board. I'm healthy now.
11-20-2001 18:01:11

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) jdodd
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I have a bit of a strange problem with the pen and a 1200... the pen works fine when booting up and using it for the pensetup ... but when 95 comes up ...no pen input at all...I suspect that the pad is not being set up on the serial port as input as 95 boots ..but can't find a place to set that up .... anybody got a clue? Love the 1200 by the way ..using it as a MPEG Jukebox.... at the moment...

also I found that using hyperterm to load the drivers I needed for my network card was a lot easier than trying to get direct cable to work.... if any body needs help with this you can email me at /jdodd@hiwaay.net

thanks all

jd

12-16-2001 10:38:59

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) YouBecha
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You need Pen services loaded...find it, download it, run it. It should find the pad input by itself.
http://www.geocities.com/mr_bubba_zanetti/
12-16-2001 18:01:21

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) lnspy
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I'm still having jitter problems usually after the computer has been running for a while. If I squeeze the case near the lower left corner the jitter stops but returns when I release the pressure. I opened the case but can't see any obvious problems. Any suggestions?
12-20-2001 08:14:19

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) YouBecha
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In my hacked up one, I have seen the jitter caused by the High Voltage lines for the backlight...It could be that yours has worked loose or it is too close to the back of the screen...it connects at the lower left portion of the screen.
12-20-2001 15:46:45

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) YouBecha
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Just had the jittery mouse (random automouse) this morning...temp was about 16 deg F in the truck...as it warmed up either there was condensation or as it warmed up the circuit flexed, either way once the temp came up to about 45 degF on the computer the jitter went away.
12-29-2001 19:21:22

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) lnspy
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I finally got around to checking the high power leads to the screen. They seemed to be too close to the screen so I moved them to the corner of the case. The rearrangement solved the cold start-up jitter problem but not when the computer got hot. Since I could stop the hot jitter by squeezing the case on the left side I figured the screen power supply board (?) was loose/defective. I replaced the board with one from my spare parts hoard. After three days the jitter has not returned. I'm hoping that solves the problem.

lnspy

02-25-2002 10:40:18

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) lnspy
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IT'S BACK! I spoke too soon: the jitter has returned. This time the jitter only occurs when I'm running on the battery -- sometimes after a cold start, always when the computer is warm. If the a/c adapter is plugged in, the jitter stops. If I squeeze the case along the left side, I can usually stabilize the mouse. Back to the drawing board (or, in this case, the motherboard). I didn't reinstall the piggyback heat exchanger but since I can get the problem on a cold start I don't think putting it back will help. On the other hand I'm running out of ideas.
03-01-2002 08:53:20

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) lnspy
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I think I finally got the problem solved. I took the Fujitsu Tech's advice and replaced the digitizer (the silvery rectangle that sits on the back of the screen). So far, no jitter even when the unit heats up. For some reason the speaker sounds better too!
03-11-2002 16:38:06

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) lnspy
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Another possible solution is to reinstall Pen Services. Recently I tried to install a 64MB ATA card and the system locked up. When I restarted, the jitter happened although the unit was cold. I reinstalled Pen Services and the problem disappeared. I sure would like to find a way to get PenX1.7 working. I don't think PS2.0 is stable.
03-22-2002 19:34:51

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) YouBecha
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Inspy, by silvery rectangle, do you mean the entire "touchpad" (rf mouse) assembly, or do you mean something else.
http://www.geocities.com/mr_bubba_zanetti/
03-30-2002 07:54:03

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) YouBecha
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The Fuji that is not in my truck is showing this same jittery mouse behavior. So just now I lowered the brightness and contrast down a bit, it is dim but readable, the jittery mouse went away... so either the screen is running too hot, or some other kind of weird stuff, but this fix occurred real-time.

Jittery mouse (bad jittery) lower brightness and contrast, 5 seconds later jittery is gone.

03-30-2002 08:15:55

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) lnspy
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Youbetcha, I actually replaced the entire assembly: the gray plastic (?) board that the motherboard is screwed into. The digitizer is attached to bottom.
03-31-2002 22:14:36

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) YouBecha
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That is the assembly I thought you were talking about...I tried to remove that from the grey pot metal back but it is stuck on there more secure than I wanted to test.

Did you have another assembly?

04-01-2002 15:28:30

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) lnspy
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Sorry, no. I got a complete 1200 with a broken screen from KenBush and used the module from it.
04-02-2002 18:06:35

New MessageRE:Pen Problems (modified 0 times) lnspy
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I solved my pen jitter problems (and a number of other issues as well) by removing the screw at the top of the case near the card port. Bizarre, but true.
10-04-2002 07:42:27

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