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Home / I-Opener Areas / I-Opener Technical Stuff BO? The BatteryOpener! battery powered I-Opener, hardware modifications, MP3, power

BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) emtnman I just finished some preliminary power tests on my IO that I wanted to share. The bottom line is that the "Stock" IO CPU with any memory configuration is an ideal candidate for a battery-operated device. I'll try to get to some real world tests done in a couple of days, but it would appear that you could derive five to eight hours of continous IO operation using a 1600ma AA NiMH power pack! This is very good news for those who want to use the IO as a mobile player, as the power requirements of the IO, HD, Fan and standard WinChip processor are quite low... 200-400ma! NiMH power is ideal for this application, as the power curve is very flat. You could probably use the IO's power supply to recharge the pack in about an hour. You'd have to monitor it though, as NiMH does not fare well when over-charged. If the pack starts getting hot, unplug it! The same low-power profile can not be seen with the WinChip2 processor, which seems to use about 1a, regardless of the task it performs. This translated into an estimated 1.5 hours of battery operation. As the WinChip2 runs cooler, I was very surprised to see these power figures. Any suggestions you might have regarding reducing the power consumption of this chip would be appreciated. I'll retest and post the results. Unless there's a fix or you REALLY NEED the extra power, I'd suggest sticking to the stock CPU for the car and other mobile apps... Other hardware: My USB-powered USB/ethernet hub (with individually powered USB speakers and CDRW connected) pulls about 50-100ma. I also tested with 32mb, 64mb and 128mb of PC100 SODIMM RAM, and memory size makes very little difference in the power consumption. All the tests below were done using a 6.5mb 2.5" Hitachi drive with a Tennmax 5v Lasagna fan in operation during the tests. Limitations: The test equipment used was an AstroFlight WhattMeter. It was designed to test the battery packs used for electronic flight. These packs generally draw 10a or greater. Because of the normally high current-levels, the Whattmeter's resolution is limited to 100ma (.1a)... still the information derived looks very promising. If you want a little more accuracy, apply the following formula by dividing the watts by the volts to derive amperage... watts(w)/volts(e)=amps(i) ... if you have more accurate equipment, I encourage you to duplicate and verify these results. The Whattmeter was placed on the 19v supply line between the IO and the wall-wart. Power was tested during several different operational phases, including the performance of Sandra 2000 benchmarks. "Real-world" tests using NiMH packs will follow... YMMV Stock IO: WinChip200/32mb Memory Process Amps Volts Watts Off 0a 19.2v 0w POST .0a 18.2v 2w ScanDisk .1a 18.2v 4w WinBoot .3a 18.2v 7w WinRest .1a 18.3v 4w WinDefrag .3a 18.4v 6w WinAmp .2a 18.4v 5w IEonline .2a 18.3v 6w SandraCPU .2a 18.2v 6w SandraDisk .2a 18.3v 6w Stock IO: WinChip200/32mb Memory w/D-Link DSB-H3E Hub Process Amps Volts Watts Off 0a 19.2v 0w Post .1a 18v 3w ScanDisk .2a 18.4v 6w WinBoot .4a 18.4v 8w WinRest .2a 18.5v 5w WinDefrag .3a 18.4v 7w WinAmpUSB .3a 18.4v 7w SandraCPU .3a 18.4v 7w SandraDisk .4a 18.4v 8w WinChip2 w/32mb Memory Process Amps Volts Watts Off 0a 19.2v 0w Post 0.8a 18.7v 17w ScanDisk 1a 18.7v 20w WinBoot 1a 18.6v 21w WinRest 0.9a 18.7v 19w WinDefrag 1a 18.6v 21w WinAmp 1a 18.7v 19w SandraCPU 1a 18.6v 20w SandraDisk 1a 18.6v 21w WinChip2 w/128mb Memory Process Amps Volts Watts Off 0a 19.2v 0w Post 0.8a 18.8v 18w ScanDisk 1a 18.7v 20w WinBoot 1a 18.6v 21w WinRest 0.9a 18.7v 19w WinDefrag 1a 18.6v 21w WinAmp 1a 18.7v 20w SandraCPU 1a 18.6v 20w SandraDisk 1a 18.6v 21w 05-10-2000 15:12:21

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) emtnman ERRATA... Unfortunately, the above tests for the WinChip processor were grossly in error, apparently my Whattmeter (or I) were malfunctioning. SORRY! Further testing has shown the WinChip to be LESS efficient (i.e. more power-hungry) than the WinChip2, as I had originally expected. This makes the WinChip2 the chip-of-choice, no matter what the application, as it is faster and more energy efficient under battery power as well. But this finding also makes the IO much less attractive for battery-powered operations, unless you are carrying some serious amperage or can live with short (1-2 hour) sessions. I am in the process of some real-world testing using sixteen cell packs and will post my results shortly. Sorry again for the error! 05-11-2000 01:06:46

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) emtnman REVISED CURRENT CONSUMPTION BENCHMARKS Winchip/WinChip2 both w/128mb Memory 6.5gb Hitachi HD and Tennmax fan Process Amps Volts Watts Off 0.0a/0.0a 19.2v/19.2v 0w/ 0w Post 1.0a/0.8a 18.6v/18.8v 19w/18w ScanDisk 1.1a/1.0a 18.6v/18.7v 22w/20w WinBoot 1.2a/1.0a 18.6v/18.6v 24w/21w WinRest 1.1a/0.9a 18.6v/18.7v 22w/19w WinDefrag 1.2a/1.0a 18.6v/18.6v 24w/21w WinAmp 1.1a/1.0a 18.6v/18.7v 23w/20w SandraCPU 1.1a/1.0a 18.6v/18.6v 22w/20w SandraDisk 1.2a/1.0a 18.6v/18.6v 24w/21w Real World Testing For these tests I used sixteen "eBay special" $1/ea Duracell NiMH "1200ma" batteries. I initially tried fifteen cells, but the voltage was unacceptably low in the early phases of testing. With sixteen cells, the batteries are still producing 18.8v by the 400ma midpoint of the tests. For the purposes of this test, these "1200ma" cells were pretty much gone by 800ma, so I used that as the cut-off point. Larger packs of better cells will provide proportionally more time. I ran the test three times for each CPU, playing WinAmp (high priority) thru my USB-powered hub to provide a reasonable real-world power-consumption benchmark. The first test was in "low-power" mode, playing WinAmp and using Waterfall to cool the CPU and reduce the power requirements. The second test was done playing WinAmp without Waterfall. The third test was done playing WinAmp and a slideshow screensaver without Waterfall to emulate a fully loaded CPU. MP3 fans take note: Waterfall tended to cause glitching on MP3/WinAmp playback while testing the original WinChip processor. "Real-World" Battery Powered I-Opener Results: WinChip/WinChip2 - Duracell NiMH 1200ma cells - actual=800ma WinChip-Waterfall: 44/53 minutes/800ma WinChip-WinAmpOnly: 39/45 minutes/800ma WinChip-WinAmp+SS: 38/44 minutes/800ma 12v Power Test Results Now for some good news... The IO performs well on a 12v supply. Motherboard voltages are stable past 9v... As you would expect, the amperage increases as the voltage drops. Based on these tests, I plan to power my IO using the 12v, 17ah Power Pack "jump start" unit I purchased from Costco for $35 (incl $10 rebate that expires Monday the 15th!) This unit weighs 20 lbs and has an integral charger. It should easily power the IO for up to eight hours... Backwoods computing at its best! WinChip2 w/7ah 12v Lead-Acid GelCell Battery Using WinAmpOnly Load/No Waterfall Duration: 3hours15min/5.4ah consumed Starting: 12.3v/1.6a Ending: 8.5v/5.4a 05-13-2000 03:07:23

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) digitalNRG Where is the 12V "jump start" batter pack w/ charger from. I looked around www.costco.com and could not find one. 05-16-2000 06:44:49

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) emtnman Mine says "Portable Power" in large letters at the top of the box... I bought my "Power Pack 12v" at the San Diego Costco in the automotive section... current price (as of yesterday) is now $57. The label reads: PP 1000 Portable Power Supply, SKU:146-032-000, UPC:10271-01400 by Century Mfg. Co. 9231 Penn. Ave. South, Minneapolis, MN 55431. 05-19-2000 12:13:33

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) Moleboy I'd really like to get some more detailed information on the power supply from you emtnman. 1. In your proffesional opinion, is this "PP 1000 Portable Power Supply" the best solution you have found? 2. Is there any way you can send me some pictures via email, or post them on a webpage? If this solution is the best, for future BBS readers the site where you can get these power supplys going through the manufacturer is: http://www.centuryonline.net/catalogue/catalogue.asp?productID=2 You have to call the 800 # to order = (800)328-2921 Any additional information anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated. --John john@hal.empnet.com 06-04-2000 12:21:15

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) nick lame well i ran mine with some 16 D ni-cads 4400mah sanyo yellow and it only lasts like 4 hours 6 pounds of batts but i got a bunch of parallel goodies no hard drive i need a good charger for these batts i guess 06-07-2000 18:08:22

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) NoSleep If I'm thinking correctly, the COSTCO supply is a lead acid battery which can double as a car jumper. It's portable and stores a lot of juice; but it's heavy. After a while, one arm will look like PopEye's : ).... While on strike against a large aerospace company, I picked up a small 12V lead-acid battery from Target for $40 ( Pocket Generator by Vector)to power a small TV on the picket line. It's rated at 5000 AH. Comes with trickle charge and can be charged from a car's cigarette lighter. Ran my I-Opener but didn't check how long it would last. Also comes with a 50W inverter. Weighs about 5-10 lbs. About 6"x4"x2". Has a shoulder strap. I don't think the lead-acid's have the memory effects that the NiCads have. They do take longer to charge. 06-07-2000 20:16:51

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) evt*is*Kool spea? SeA. or EvT. 06-07-2000 22:27:43

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) OneDayLongerOrNewJob Sea...Corporate 06-08-2000 00:55:06

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) NoSleep OOoops...5000 AH should be 5000mAH. It's not quite that powerful. 06-08-2000 00:58:08

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) V3 Hacker nick lame said: > well i ran mine with some 16 D ni-cads 4400mah sanyo yellow > and it only lasts like 4 hours 6 pounds of batts > but i got a bunch of parallel goodies Anyone try the new Lithium-Ion batteries? Duracell & EverReady's new Ultra batteries are really LiI and should be easily recharable with the right charger. They should double your battery time on the IOpener. 06-08-2000 07:55:20

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) chipjumper go to a hobby shop or www.towerhobbies.com and buy a gel cell. I believe they are 12volts 7amps. Should be cheaper than going to "costco"...just a thought 06-08-2000 23:24:44

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) emtnman Moleboy... I am very happy with my "PP1000 Portable Power Supply"... But any 17ah jump-start type system will work just as well as the Costco unit. It depends on your needs... For capacity, figure that 12v power source will consume ~1.7amps per hour, so size accordingly... Since gel-cells (like the jump-start batteries) continously lose capacity, you may want to double your estimated AH requirement. That's why I like the 17ah option, which offers about ten hours of continous operation. After 200 cycles, I should have 8.5ma capacity remaining, or 5 hours of IO operation. The jump start units are nice because they include an integrated charging and power monitoring systems, are easy to carry and transport and are very versatile units that you can use for many purposes. I'm very happy with my decision. Gel-cell batteries from hobby shops will also work, but you will also need a charging system and can only expect about four hours of operation on a 7ah battery, declining to two hours after 200 cycles. You can also buy deep-discharge "RV" type wet cells (also cheap from Costco) and a charger if you have an automotive or other "fixed" application. These will offer MUCH more capacity and a longer life, but batteries are heavy and filled with sulphuric acid, which can be very "messy" if tipped... If you are considering NiCD, calculate the capacity requirement of a NiCD battery pack based on one hour of operation (16 cells/19v output) per amp hour... Remember you will also need a special charging system to support your 16 cell packs... Units like the Hitec 325 Charger start at around $70... they will charge a 2.5ah pack in an hour and will require a 12v power source, usually a large deep-cycle 12v battery! Ironic, isn't it? 06-21-2000 15:41:02

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) emtnman Oops... The Hitec 325 can't charge large packs! Please note that the Hitec 330 is the minimum charger for 16 cells... ~$70... other options would include the Hitec 335 and Astroflight 110D and 112D. 06-21-2000 15:46:15

12 volt operation (modified 0 times) Millennium_Falcon Profile | Email I am new to this list so I hope I am posting in the right place. Forgive me if I am not. I am assuming from what I have read here that the I-Opener will be very happy with a 12Volt source. I am planning on adding a HD, CD, and second serial port to my IO so thai I can run it on my boat as a navigation station. The CD will be to import charts, the HD will hold all the navigation software, the serial port will be for input of the weather station and the GPS (switched as needed) I plan on using PSK31 software to operate a low power Ham station using the "sound card" that is internal in the IO. (I am assuming the sound is Soundblaster software compatable??) The whole mess will run off the house battery which is 660AH 12 volt bank. I will preserve the 19volt transformer input for use when I carry it ashore for E-Mail duties. Does anyone see any reason any portion of this might not work? Will the whole thing run off 12 volts without any hickups? Jim 11-15-2000 20:47:27

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) starfish Profile V4 & before wouldn't have Sound Output @ 12V. Don't know about V5s 11-15-2000 21:08:16

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) numbski Profile Radio shack sells a large power pack at 12 volts (I'll try to get a part number this weekend) that has a stock black casing for $35 that I think would suit this need. As far as the 12V dillemma, why not go to sproggy.com, and get the I-booster design and build in a 19v port? Wouldn't be hard at all. This thing comes with a charger built in AND multiple ports for different voltages. Ideal for someone like me that has an external USB orb drive that needs a 5v supply. Numbski 11-16-2000 06:41:35

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) Millennium_Falcon Profile | Email I just purchased from Hasfelt Electronics an inverter with 9 to 24V DC input and 24V DC output at 2 amps for only $19.95. It just arrived today so I havent opened it up but I plan on lowering the output to 19V. This should solve any problems with operating the I-Opener on 12 volts. Its small enough that it will fit very easily inside the case I purchased from Mark Turpin. The output connector of the inverter is positive center and an exact fit to the I-Opener. The input connector is an automobile cigarette lighter plug. With both the orriginal power supply and this inverter in the case I will have an AC/DC I-Opener. 12-01-2000 00:33:55

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) numbski Profile Be sure to post circuits and part numbers. Kthx. ;) Numbski 12-01-2000 10:30:26

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) thecounts Profile | Email I have another approach. I wanted to take my I-opener on the road - specifically to install it in my van as a GPS display/MP# player/onboard games computer. I bought a couple of Toshiba Auto Adapters - part # PA750L - for old Toshiba T2000, T2200SX, and T3300SL notebook computers for $4.25 + $15 S&H on Ebay from an outfit called Emerald City sales. They came as a package deal with 4 or five other obsolete items for Toshiba notebooks (anybody got a use for a couple of 2400 baud PCMCIA modems? how 'bout an internal soundcard for a T2400 notebook? no? me either!) Anyway, the adapter plugs into the cigarette lighter and has a rectangular output plug with two pairs of holes in a straight-line configuration like this; Pin # 1 2 3 4 _________ output pair #1 |o o|o o | Output pair #2 --------- Polarity - + + - The positive pin of each output pair is 18v and is rated for 1.1 amps according to the spec sheet. I want to use the full 2.2 amps by combining the two output pairs, but am wondering if they need to stay electrically isolated. If so, how's this sound for an idea? 1)insert the negative ends of a couple of 20v, 3amp diodes (I can get 4 of them at my local Active Electronics store for under $2) into the two +18v sockets (pins 2 & 3) 2)tie the positive ends of the diodes together 3)run a wire from where they join to the center conductor of a plug that will fit the I-opener's power input socket. To join the negative side of each pair I could just run a "Y" cable made of wire from the two negative sockets (pins 1 & 4) to the outer shell of the plug that fits the I-opener. Alternatively I could also isolate the grounds wires from each other by using two more of the same diodes and 1)inserting their positive ends into the sockets 2)tying the negative ends of the diodes together and 3)running a wire from where they are joined to the outer shell of the DC power plug. Since each diode will create a .7v drop in the voltage of the line, having them in series on each ouput pair (one on the positive side and one on the negative side) would cause a 1.4v drop - right? That would still leave me with a VERY "clean" 16.6v and the full 2.2 amps of current and no worries about any weird harmonics/ripple/phase effects causing the whole thing to blow up. Does anyone see any reaon why this won't work or is a bad idea? Am I going overboard on the side of caution here in worrying about isolating these lines? I figure there must be some reason why Toshiba designed it (and the notebook it works with) with TWO pairs of 18v/G wires instead of only one. Anybody have any thoughts? 12-01-2000 16:47:05

RE:BO? The BatteryOpener! (modified 0 times) Millennium_Falcon Profile | Email I think its easier than that. Just put a diode of the correct current rating in series with each of the two 18V inputs. That way you only drop .7 volts and the result is 2.2 amps at 17.3V. The diodes should be 50V at least just in case there is a spike. Its hard to find diodes less than 50V anyway. You may have to settle for 100V, but it doesnt matter as long as the current rating of each one is over 1.5 amps. Put the cathode of the diodes toward the 19 volt input of the I-Opener and tie them together. The two anodes just go to each of the 18Volt outputs. 12-01-2000 17:36:53

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