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K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows?

New MessageK6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) MMoogle
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Ok I just want to get everything right before I spend $50 on a chip :) . I have a V5 with everything set up as it came, except for the patched bios and a HD added. I want to add the K6 III+ 450 to it. I need to change the voltage to 2.0 using SW4, and change the multipliers if I want a higher clockrate. However, I'm not that good at soldering, and I read about a program that will change the multiplier on the fly within windows here: http://www.amdzone.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=13&threadid=23781 Can I set the voltage to 2.0 volts, put in the K6 III, start it up and change the bus speed to 100 with softfsb, and then use the clock changing program to set the multiplyer to 4.5? This would require no soldering or any other purchases except for the chip.
11-15-2000 14:23:41

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) BadFlash
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You need to make changes to the power supply to support the current needed to run at 450. No changes are needed to run at 200, but much over that you will get the power supply to shut down. Over 333Mhz the low voltage regulator Q16 generates too much heat and will fry stuff. There are lots of changes needed to support that. 333 with a K6-III is very fast and I think you will be quite happy with it.

With a V5 the changes are minimal to get to 333. You need to add (solder) a .012 ohm resistor to increase the power supply current before it shuts down. If you have a software solution to the CPU multiplier, you would not need any dip switches. X5 gives you 333Mhz. Get the resistor and have a tech solder it in for you.

11-15-2000 15:32:07

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) WanneBe
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I've seen posts where people have been using near-zero ohm resistors to jumper across the multiplier pads. Except for the ability to modify in the future, is there any advantage over just dropping a piece of solder between the pads to get the desired multipler? Since I have really poor soldering skills, I did this to get a 3X multiplier and it seems to work. I tried conductive epoxy; but that didn't work. Either poor adhesion or too high of a resistance. I scraped it off and soldered it.
11-15-2000 16:13:40

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) WanneBe
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A little bit of clarification, the multiplier was already at 3X (66 FSB)for a 200 MHZ CPU speed. I soldered the FSB to start at 100 FSB. That gave me the 300 MHZ CPU speed.
11-15-2000 16:21:50

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) vailr
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IO @ 300 Mhz using a K63+ 450 CPU @ 1.68 volts: no power resistor soldering required.
11-15-2000 21:25:02

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) BadFlash
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What are your temps?
11-16-2000 08:20:21

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) Tackhead
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WanneBe: Re: using solder bridges to "jumper" across pads

Yes, your technique will usually work, but it's somewhat risky in that (especially if you've scraped off the conductive epoxy you used on the first try) you might be shorting out on traces between the pads. If that happens, you could get anything from "it doesn't boot" to "it blows up real good".

To jumper the pads, I did the following:

1) "Tin the leads" of a short (~1-2mm) piece of solid-core wire or 30-gauge wire-wrap wire. This means "glop solder onto it".

2) Tin the pads. (Same deal, just touch the iron and the solder to the pad on the motherboard.)

3) Clean the pads. With a bit of solder wick, I removed the excess solder from #2, leaving me with a nice clean silvery layer on the pad.

4) Place the wire. I held it in place with the tip of a small jeweller's screwdriver.

5) Tack it down. Place the soldering iron against the wire and the pad simultaneously. The solder on both parts (from "tinning" the lead and the pad) will flow together.

6) Solder the other end. Same way, but you can old down a little longer, 'cuz the solder joint you made in step 5 will help hold things in place.

7) Resolder the first end. With a really nice joint from step 6 holding the wire in place, you can now go back and do a proper job on the first end you did in step 5.

Sounds complicated, but it's not. 10-20 seconds to tin the leads/pads, and 2-3 seconds for steps 5, 6, and 7.

(As always, practice on a junk board first

11-16-2000 12:04:34

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) PhotonWarrior
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BadFlash, Turbo3, and Tackhead.
I have not seen any discussion in the last 2 weeks about taking the K6III up to 450. The last I read, there was smoke all over the place. Were you able to work it out? I am guessing not, but hoping so.

So, I have a couple questions.
Can the AMD K6-III 450 still be bought anywhere? MMoogle, have you found them somewhere?
Anyone who bought one and found the voltage hack to grueling wanna sell one to me?

Is there an advantage to running the AMD-K6III at 300mhz over running the AMD K6II at 333mhz?

Are these available anywhere?
TIA!

11-17-2000 02:29:00

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) BadFlash
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PhotonWarrior: No smoke, just some unrelated problems to the K6-III+. The big reason you have not heard from me is that I have very little time to tinker right now. I had no problems at all running the K6-III+ at 333 at 2V on a stock V5, or at 2V on a stock V4, or at 2V on a slighly modified V3. .012 ohm resistor is needed to get the power supply to stay on line. I got to 450 with no problems with cooling resistors added to the V5 when I killed the bios chip. I did it again with a V3 and discovered that I was in the habit of turning the machine off at just the wrong time after verification of a step, which wipes the chip slick. Always let it boot all the way before you turn it off. If you turn it off with the power switch, hold it down for at least 8 seconds.

As to using a K6-III vs a k6-II, yea, BIG advantage. The L2 cashe gives it a performance boost of nearly double. Don't know where you can find any K6-III+

11-17-2000 07:19:37

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) MMoogle
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You can get a K6 III+ 450 here:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/Category/category_slc.asp?id=12080102
Havent ordered one yet, though.
11-17-2000 12:58:49

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) WanneBe
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Tackhead,

Your technique sounds better and doesn't seem like it would require great soldering skills. I can see how globbing on a piece of solder, like I did, could melt some of the top layers and possibly short out traces on sublayers.

If I ever get lucky enough to find a surplussed I-Opener, I'll try your technique.

For now, the I-Opener with the globs of solder works. Sometimes, it's better to be lucky than good.

11-17-2000 13:30:32

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) Tackhead
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WanneBe: Yes, all those risks I mentioned about the solder-globbing apply in the reverse direction too.

Your choice to leave it as-is is a great application of the most important rule of this kind of seat-of-your-pants hacking, namely: "don't fix it if it ain't broke".

11-20-2000 10:06:28

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) tanker
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I need some clarification here. Sorry if this has been covered in other threads, but as a
full-time lurker (I think I have read almost every thread here), I have discovered that many topics are covered in passing but not in detail. And usually contradicted in the following post. I do understand that most of the posts are ongoing discusions and can lead to some confusion.
What I would like to know:
Is it possible to get a K63+ 450 @ anything above 200mhz without going nuts on the
soldering. I'm not looking for a software solution here.
I have set sw4 to 2v and will soon have sw3 switched moved to sw1. Now, what would
be the next step up (MHZ wise) I could get away with without doing any more soldering?
Note this is a V5 IO. If I need to tackle the cooling resistor and Q16 thats fine, but to be honest I'm not quite sure what a "cooling" resistor is. Is that just a normal resistor (value?)or a resistor that is made to be used as such?
Any guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks........
01-24-2001 20:59:03

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) cheaphack
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on a V5, without any soldering, you can use k6clk to get to 266/300Mhz (4x or 4.5x multiplier). Just set to 2V and set multiplier in autoexec.bat or windows. Mine will run forever at 266, has problem with some programs at 300.

I'm going to do the resistor and drain leg resistor mod (and maybe hardwire 100 FSB) and go for 3x100 or 4.5x100. 100fsb gives a near 50% performance boost over 66mhz, so this mod should really make the io perform.

01-25-2001 07:31:20

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) BadFlash
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The details of the final hack for the "cooling resistor" changes are documented in the tech ref section. They are close to the top. As to how and why it works and why you need it:

A stock I-O draws very low current, under 4 amps at a voltage the is within a few tenths of a volt of 3.5V. Q16 is a linear power mosfet and uses the motherboard as a heat sink. Q16 regulates the voltage to the CPU core by acting as a variable resistor. In the stock configuration it doesn't get very hot. The K6-III+ at 2V/450Mhz draws around 7 amps. If you drop 1.5 volts across it at 7 amps you are blowing 10.5 watts into a tiny area of the motherboard and it gets hot enough to melt the solder right off Q16. heat sinking Q16 is ineffective and reduces temps by no more than 10 degrees F.

The idea behind the cooling resistor is to insert a series resistance that will allow Q16 to operate close to full on at 7 amps. 7ampsX.13ohms=.92 volts so the "cooling resistor" will dissapate most of the heat harmlessly into the air and not into the motherboard. I killed a V5 at just 300Mhz without a cooling resistor, so don't push it. It is a very easy change to make.

01-25-2001 09:50:36

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) tanker
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If I set the FSB to 100mhz and leave the multiplier at 3 (giving me 300mhz) should I need the Q16 mod?
01-25-2001 10:44:55

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) tanker
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Disregard the above statement.
Thanks for that detailed info Badflash. It does clarify things.
01-25-2001 10:49:50

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) mp3boombox
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Ok i'll release my findings later but going between mod version's for putting a k6-3 450
my cpu runs around 110F mother board around 125f. At 500mhz the temp rises to about 123 degreese under heavy strees.
when testing my system is currently loaded with a 12gig HD, one of my serial port hacks, and one of my audio port hacks, a usb device, a fan and all the reg. IO hardware on board.

Now i'v combinded different mod versions from badflash and trubo3 and my own.

Right now i can run my IO at 550mhz 5x110 for about 40minets using the CPU HELL tester, for people over clocking so they can see if there cpu will take the stress and heat. 40min at 550mhz is not bad at all. :) I'll do some test's with 5.5x100 later on. Currently I'm using a custom design heatsynk/fan setup which is a little more efective then the tennmax system plus my fan is a 1"x1" using .3mah less then the tennmax also.
Now for a broad example of what of done.

r202 is 500k pot ( <- got from aspguy)
R203 is 10K
R343 is 100K ( <- got from aspguy) trubo3 uses 102k
R342 is 47K ( <- got from aspguy) vcores down to 1.7v at lowest
R302 is 0.012 ( <- got from aspguy) i'v put this is parallel with r302. basicly solderd it on top. to drop it even lower.

the dropping resisters i'm using badflashes ver currently. #3 .45 ohm 5watt resisters in parallel on the q16 chip.

my q16 chip has a speical heat synk which i'v built. this is half active cooling and half air cool, I used a thin metal RF shield from some device i had. cdrom i think?? and built like a T shape system to it from the side and looking down on it its like a BIG L. The base or T shape part is connected to the q16. looking down the L shape part is made to recive air comming from the heat synk. There are many little cooling fins I'v solderd on to this heat synk setup on all areas. So far I'v yet to see it get so hot that it melts its self off or shuts down due to heat. Its realy hard to explain with out a picture.

My system is a V3B which is hardwired via jumpers to 3x100. my voltage I'm testing with curently is 1.78v for all CPU settings.

When the CPU or what ever does finaly give out and reboot on me about 40min later I'm not shure if its A mother board based heat problem or a power problem or same witht he cpu? heat or power? chances are HEAT. Now the thing that I'm thinking about doing is the good old AMD k6-(x) over clockers MOD. this is NOT RECCOMENDED TO ANY ONE WHO WANTS TO RISK THERE CPU!!!!!! but every amd cpu that is a k6-(x) 2 or 3 + or reg. has whats called a HOT CAP ON IT. Rember the good old dutches p2 400mhz cpu. it was in the HOT box, well this is the same idear. The metal cover on top of every amd CPU of these type is just epoxed on in 4 spots around the edges, with some heat transfer goo between the core and the top of the HOT CAN though there is a void between the top and the core. You remove the can you then have dirrect contact with the CPU CORE. With straight contact to the core and the heat synk, your talking about a good savings on heat. Most people doing this can achieve 15 degreese cooler OR more depending on your cooling style.

I'll post my results later. My over all goal is to acheave 550mhz period with or with out a higher then 100mhz fsb. If i could find a k6-3 550 + which they DO MAKE i'd be all over it. and trying to get 600 or 650.

as is 550mhz will decode DVD'S with out flaw.

My over all over all goal is to get all this working with a 6x laptop cdrom and the floppy drive IF possable. :) that would be the bomb!!!

Turbo3 what do you think of my HEATSYNK that i built for the CPU?????
will send pictures of the q16 heat synk next time i rip my IO apart.

01-25-2001 15:20:30

New MessageRE:K6 III+ 450 set multipliers in windows? (modified 0 times) cwalthall
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Can any one tell me how to mod. the ipener to use a k6-2 450mhz chip, I hear this can be done by changing some surface
mount components.
Thanks Carl
01-26-2001 21:36:05

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