V3 AMD MOD
Hi, ok to save the rest of you guys the trouble of READING 500+ post's trying to compile THIS info below I figured I'll save yall the time. The other day I talked with trubo3 live and compiled this info so this comes by way of him.
I DO HOW EVER suggest you guys look thew the badflash and trubo3 k6-x mod howto's. Below is just WHAT they used for hardware and waht goes where how and why. they went into more detail on other topics about doing this easyer and what to do where. ;) just think thats about 450 posts of reading off the cover price ;).
parts needed: this is for a k6-3 but will work fine with k6-2 the values may need to change. the only part that would need to change is R342.
2x 0.1 ohm 5 watt resistors in series to give 0.2 ohms at 10 watts.
R203 is 10K (move r202 to r203)
R343 is 102K or 100K suggest the (102k)
R342 is 47K vcores down to 1.5-1.6v values for this will range from 10k-50k (use 50k pot to be able to change your lowest core voltage with ease)
R302 is 0.012 I have the .012ohm resister and the orignal one in parallel.
on the pot use the two pins closest to the adjustment screw. This way a clockwise turn increases the vcore and a counter-clockwise turn decreases the voltage. the 2 wires comming from the first 2 pins get solderd to the PADS of r202, it doesnt matter which pads you solder to. Its just a resister.
and last but not least r60-r61 get moved to r184-185 these are around the CPU. There big resisters with a zero on them.
Location's:
The 2x 0.1 ohm 5 watt resistors in series are solderd to the back of the q16 chip and to the pad, the back was once solderd to. Use a heavy guage wire or you will have some BIG problems on your hands. these WILL GET very hot so they need to be in an area where they can get cooled. If you are using a tenn. fan well put the resisters near the top in the flow of air.
R203 is by the q16 chip on the other side of the big silver CAP.
r243 is near the TOP right hand corner of the memory slot (just above the serial port also).
r342 same as above there side by side
r302 is a little harder to find but if you look down by the spot where you plug your power supply into the io. You will see 4 big silver caps. now just to the right of the caps you'll see 2 black components, inbetween the caps and the black components is a HUGE resister cant miss it.
Last but not least the r202 is to the left of the r203, r203 is listed ablove....
Ok next step is prity simple WITH NO cpu installed BUT you do need to have all parts above solderd in and finished. the q16 MUST be fully resolderd to geather with the dropping resisters and a heat synk. Now to brake out a multimeter Your going to test the the voltage from the r60-r61 spots, by putting your + meter tip on the pad closer to the outside away from the CPU. this will give your your voltage core. Useing the setup above if you do not have a multimeter to test the voltage you, you CAN but I highly and strognly reccomend aganced it. But you can turn the 500k pot counter clockwise to the end then clock wise 5 turnd. This will put you past the lowest posable Vref. BUT you cant go below the vref so if you use the ablove setup your going to end up with a 1.7v core voltage. heh with out looking. BUT this is strongly reccomended aganced doing this.
Just a reminder q16 wont get hot till you'v got a CPU installed. When you do, you BETTER have some good cooling system either active or a nice open heat synk cause if not your going to find the q16 tipping over. heh the dam thing gets so hot it WILL melt solder if not cooled correctly. Do not let the q16 or the heat synk you use tuch the RF shiled cause that is a positive power source. RF shield is a ground. NOT GOOD.
