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I-Opener How-TO
Using SoftFSB w/pictures

New MessageI-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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You can overclock your I-Opener using software only. This program will do just that without even re-booting. SoftFSB...get it here:

http://www.tweakfiles.com/processor/softfsb.html

Here are my pictures of the process:

http://photos.yahoo.com/ckbone63123

After getting the program, expand it into a folder on your hard drive. There is no installation...you run it directly from the folder. Place a shortcut on your task bar for easy access.

After starting the program, set the clock generator as shown.

Then click the option button and adjust settings as shown.

Click Get FSB

Adjust FSB to "70" for starters. If it works at 70, you can go higher. Some cpus run at "75" or higher. If you lock-up, just reboot. Try again. My Winchip2 won't go over "70".

Click Set FSB

Click OK.

The last two screens are the Sandra benchmarks for the stock 200mhz and the overclocked 210 mhz....almost a 10% improvement. You do have to run this program after each restart. This is known to work on Winchips, pentiums, and AMD cpus. After this overclock, you will feel the improvement immediately. (The benchmarks are for a Winchip2, Sandra 2001pro)

More How-TOs to come. If anyone has a good tested How-To, pictures are helpful, please post them. Any requests?

03-27-2001 19:03:14

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) GWIZAH
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How about a newbie How-to?

Start to finish, Plug the HD into a desktop, Fdisk, (better yet, Ranish it!) format, sys it, copy cab files, copy Via drivers, plug into I-op, Good to go!! -Something along those lines....

Again, Im still waiting for a replacement IMOD-3 so I cant do it myself!

03-27-2001 21:07:05

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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GWIZAH.....A complete description of how to build a working I-Opener/computer is too much for one topic/post. This whole BBS is the description.....thousands of pages, books of information, many different successful solutions....way too much for anyone to try to condense, and do it justice. A determined person using the search feature, can find the answer to almost every question right here.

Here's what someone could do...take a V5, using an I-mod3, describe that particular hack in detail. I don't have either part, or I might try. Why don't you do it?

I would rather try to describe a particular procedure in this I-Opener thing, such as the use of SoftFSB, rather than write a long essay on the whole subject, which has already been done bit-by-bit by many different persons, much better than I ever could. I don't know if this How-To topic will take off. I do need help to make it a success.

03-28-2001 04:33:38

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) YouBecha
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that info is available on this site, fairly organized.


http://www.linux-hacker.net/cgi-bin/UltraBoard/UltraBoard.pl?Action=ShowPost&Board=technical&Post=1383&Idle=0&Sort=0&Order=Descend&Page=0

there is a series...just search for "tips"


http://www.geocities.com/mr_bubba_zanetti/
03-28-2001 10:13:09

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) GWIZAH
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Well Ckbone I would if I had an IMOD-3 to do it!

Thats exactly what I was thinking though. Thanks Youbetcha. Those tips have been very helpful since I got my v5.

Im still waiting for a replacement IMOD so Im pretty much on standby right now.

03-28-2001 17:13:55

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) Spike
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Thanks for the walk-through, ckbone! I don't know jack about overclocking and your tutorial was just the push I needed. Works like a charm!
03-29-2001 15:34:19

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) GWIZAH
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Okay, I finally put together a basic How-to on getting Windows 98 onto your I-opener with an IMOD-3 Kit. If you know any newbies send em over. Its here
04-08-2001 20:33:33

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) budapest
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Is there a How-TO for Linux on IOs.
04-08-2001 20:57:56

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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Good going GWIZAH.....I'm sure that How-To will help quite a few people. Too bad it's too late to help that poor fellow who hooked up the I-Mod3 to the I-Opener and the main computer power supply at the samne time! One thing to note here....GWIZAH's method of setting up the hard drive is the standard method using FDISK. Believe it or not, I've set up many I-Openers, many regular computers, and never used FDISK. I use a drive setup utility from Maxtor (Maxblast 9.04). This goes to prove there are many ways to achieve the same result.

I'm certain there are many How-To's out there...some already written, some waiting to be. I know almost nothing about Linux. There are many posts on that subject on this BBS.

More How-To's to come.......

04-09-2001 04:54:55

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) GWIZAH
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CKBone,

I did the Fdisk method because it's the easiest utility to get on a bootdisk. Ive used Partition magic, Ranish, etc. on desktops before, I just chose to do the I-o install with Fdisk because I wanted non-hackers to see how easy it is. I think the How-to's are a good idea, I fried my IMOD-3 the first time I installed because I wasnt careful, but it was because of touching the case to the board! Keep it up!

04-09-2001 06:11:36

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) DeanBag1
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Hey Gwizah,
Nice How-TO. One thing though. Won't your directions only work for a V1? For later versions you have to do another step first.

You have to load a hard drive with a V1 sandisk image with BIOS flashing utils and a V1 bios .bin. (Used to be available on IDrive) Then you attach it to the IO, go into BIOS setup, and change the drive information (to mimic the Sandisk) and change order of drive boot, and reboot. Thus fooling the IO into thinking your attached drive is the Sandisk. Then during the V1 software boot, you get to a QNX prompt, flash the bios and shutdown. Then attach whatever hard drive you want (Step 6 of your steps). And reboot.

It was so long ago that I did this, that I don't remember the exact details, but I know that it is very important, and I had a lot of trouble doing these steps. I think a concise tutorial on these steps would be even more important for those with later version Iopeners.

You can find this information on this site, but a nice website like GWIZAH's would be really cool,

04-09-2001 08:43:21

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) DeanBag1
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Or you could just buy a BIOS chip from BADFLASH and a PLCC extractor from Rat Shack.

But I like doing things the hard way. :)

04-09-2001 08:53:19

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) DeanBag1
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sorry, should have put this in one of my previous msgs:

One of the threads I'm talking about:

http://www.linux-hacker.net/cgi-bin/UltraBoard/UltraBoard.pl?Action=ShowPost&Board=verytech&Post=86&Idle=0&Sort=0&Order=Descend&Page=0&Session=deanbag1.98683114314125

04-09-2001 08:58:09

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) DeanBag1
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crap.. haha ok, session info deleted:

http://www.linux-hacker.net/cgi-bin/UltraBoard/UltraBoard.pl?Action=ShowPost&Board=verytech&Post=86

I wish we could delete or actually "Modify" our posts.

04-09-2001 09:00:11

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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Hi-Visibility on the I-Opener.....Due to the type of screen the I-Opener has, it's sharpness , visibility, and refresh rates are not as good as a regular CRT or TFT screen. Here's how to make your pointer more visible.

Pictures are here: http://photos.yahoo.com/ckbone63123

Go into the control panel, add/remove programs, Windows setup. If the Accessability button is not checked, check it. When you apply the changes Windows will ask for the Win98 cdrom. You actually don't need the whole program...only Win98 CAB file #25 is necessary. Apply the changes and reboot.

After the reboot go back into control panel, click on mouse properties. From the drop-down menu select Black extra-large, apply the changes.

Also in mouse properties, click on motion. Adjust the pointer speed to a slower setting. Apply the changes. This will make your now larger pointer more visible when moving it. The pointer colors will make the contrast with the screen colors more visible.

With the I-Opener's screen being what it is, you need all the help you can get. This setting works best for me...you could try other settings/colors.

04-09-2001 12:04:56

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO.....DSL speed (modified 0 times) GWIZAH
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Woohoo! I just hooked up an Alcatel SPeedtouch USB DSL modem and now I can go grab all my utils str8 to the I-o. I have'nt seen any threads concerning DSL and the I-o, except network or lan connections. Anyone got one of these running on an I-o directly?? My throughput is about 527k through a standard DSL hookup, Stock V-5 running at 210Mhz (thanks Ckbone :-p)
04-09-2001 16:21:15

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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Backup Your I-Opener: After a whole lot of trouble setting up your I-Opener you need a good backup plan. Here's my #1 backup method....never failed me yet. It works on an I-Opener without a boot-disk. You only need to be able to boot to a DOS prompt either on the sandisk, or on the C:drive. The program I use is Powerquest Drive Image 2.0. The latest version 4.0 works about the same. This is not a free program, but it's worth the cost if you only use it once. I make an image of the C:drive every time I set up a computer. What you are then able to do, is completely restore the C:drive to it's former configuration, should anything happen which cannot be fixed. Here's how:

Pictures are here: http://photos.yahoo.com/ckbone63123

#1 You boot to a DOS prompt, either on your sandisk, or your C:drive. On the C:drive you reach the Win98 startup menu by hitting F8 as the computer is booting.

#2 The program (pqdi) resides in a folder on the C:drive and/or on the sandisk.

#3 Hit enter at this screen

#4 Here I'm creating an image

#5 Select the source drive...Here it's C/E. On this I-Opener the sandisk (bootable) is D.

#6 Select the Source partition...here it's C

#7 Name the Image....you can describe it here also.

#8 I always compress the image 40%...you can go to 50% but it takes a whole lot more time.

#9 Check here you got it right

#10 There is an option screen....you could break up a large image into smaller files. For instance you might want to save it on ZIP disks.

#11 Here I'm creating an image

#12 Finished....A 530mb C:drive image created in 8 1/2 minutes.

#13 Here's the image file on the E:drive. It's 291mb. You keep it here and I usually make another copy on a cdrom (another back-up option).

To restore this image, the procedure is almost the same, except at the picture #4 you click restore. This program does require you to have at least two partitions. The image has to be stored on a partition other than the C:drive. This program has saved me many times, on many different computers. On the I-Opener, without a floppy to boot from, and with a whole lot of trouble required to remove the hard drive....this program is a life-saver.

04-11-2001 18:48:07

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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This last album has, I hope, temporarily disappeared. I'll upload it again later if it doesn't show up soon.
04-11-2001 18:57:11

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) mp3boombox
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heh, I on a regular basis use my IO as a file transport medium only. Seeing as how I'v got a 12gig hard drive, it help's. Best file transfer speed I'v seeing using a t3 was 1.2megs a sec. thats just shy of the MAX bandwith the port its self can muster.

as for trasnfering files straight over the network. Well to trasnfer 650megs takes ABOUT 20minets at full bandwith. :s not great BUT hay better then nothing EEHHH!!

If i ever get the energy up and finlize and install the CDROM for my IO that would give me a little more bandwith. Well not realy I'm lieing, I'v only got a 6x cdrom. But the posablity for faster drives is still there!

04-11-2001 19:43:59

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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We've all got our favorite Hacker Tools...here are mine:

http://photos.yahoo.com/ckbone63123

#1 Nipper (side cutter) I got this from Radio Shack. It's small cutting head is just right for making small wire cuts. It's also strong enough to cut aluminum...I used it to make a cut in the rf shield for my fan. It cuts the case plastic easily also.

#2 A very small gage wire stripper...also from RS.

#3 Vacuum solder sucker. You cock the trigger, heat the solder, point the head right on the solder, pull the trigger....no more solder. Also from RS.

#4 Voice Meter (vom). This device will tell you your readings when you push the button on the positive probe. This comes in real handy when you are in cramped quarters and cannot see the meter....or you are getting readings from a delicate operation and don't want to take your eyes off the probe. Another RS item from many years ago.

#5 Contact-less temperature meter with a laser pointer. Shown here getting a reading off q16. The red laser dot is where the reading is taken (board not powered up). This thing has many uses....mostly where I work...but comes in handy on the I-Opener.

#6 It's from Snap-on...$125.

Sure you can hack I-Openers without expensive tools, but they help.....

04-15-2001 17:31:07

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) Doogman
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Tools...

The Radio Shack solder-sucker that is a hot iron with a big red bulb is one of the best desoldering devices I've used for the price. It might be a tad big for some of the super-fine work, but works great for more "normal" electronics work.

I'm not sure if it's available yet or not, I've had mine for years.

04-16-2001 15:55:19

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) BubbaDog56
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The cleanest thing for cutting the shield and plastic is a Nibbling Tool from RatShack. It costs about $10, and can be used for making clean edge openings in all sorts of stuff. Check it out at http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F005%5F005%5F020%5F000&product%5Fid=64%2D823

B'Dog

04-16-2001 17:56:59

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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Troubleshooting the I-Opener: Too bad the I-Opener did not come with a real manual...well, it wasn't supposed to be a real computer. What did you expect? However, for all practical purposes, it has standard pc architecture....and is not much different from your average pc. What this means is, standard pc troubleshooting, standard hardware stuff, applies to the I-Opener, as it does to all PCs. Here's a good place to start if you want to learn something, basics, about your I-Opener....most everything applies. If there is another question you have, or you have a specific problem with your I-Opener, this BBS is your best bet. Try reading this first....click on the "faq" tab, then click "General Troubleshooting".

http://www2.giga-byte.com/faq/faq.htm

04-18-2001 16:31:23

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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FWIW.....I hope everyone attempting his first I-Opener hack, will read this article....maybe print it out. Old-timers on this BBS (myself included), will find the answers to a very large number of posted questions, right here in this Gigibyte article. A lot of it is common sense....but maybe not so common to a beginner. Read over some of the questions posed on this BBS and you'll see what I mean.
04-19-2001 03:33:24

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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How-To...install a Kingston Turbochip 400 in your I-Opener. Pictures are here:

http://photos.yahoo.com/ckbone63123

As you can see in the pictures the shield and case must be cut...the upper stand mount hole on the ram side must be cut. I'm using another type of stand with this setup...if you want to use the stock stand, it too must be cut back slightly. I used a Radio Shack "nipper" for all the cuts, except the steel mount plate, which I drilled out. You want to be certain none of the shield touches the Turbochip. You lay out the shield on the board to mark the area to be cut. Remember...this hole can be enlarged after cutting, it cannot be made smaller. Measure carefully. After the shield is cut and finished, lay it out on the plastic case...then mark and cut the case. I used the nipper again, and finished it off with a small file and sandpaper. It sticks out slightly from the case....You could put a grill of some kind over it if you worry about small fingers getting in the fan. The finger wouldn't be hurt...the fan might. This same cutting technique could be used with any fan setup that required case cutting. The plastic and shield are very soft and can be cut with a variety of tools. Take your time and it will look good......

04-28-2001 15:46:29

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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How-TO make the sandisk bootable: A useful modification that can be used for many different things. Remember...if you have an IDE cdrom hooked up, the sandisk will not be available for anything. Pictures here:

http://photos.yahoo.com/ckbone63123

To do this operation I used Partition Magic 6.0 (current version). Earlier versions should do this exactly the same...although the program may look different. I know of no way to do this using Fdisk...I've only used Partition Magic...the best utility for this purpose.

#1 Check My Computer....no Sandisk. This I-Opener has two partitions, dual-booting Win98 and Win2000.

If you check Device manager you will see the Sandisk.

At the Partition Magic first screen, note the Sandisk has four partitions.

#4 After highliting each of the four partitions delete each one.

You will now see the Sandisk as one partition, unallocated.

#6 Under the operation tab hit create...you will then create a primary partition as fat.

#9 under operations, advanced, click set active. Then apply the changes. Up till this point you could cancel and start over.

#11 reboot to Windows and the Sandisk should now appear in my computer as D.

#12 Now reboot to a DOS prompt (hit F8 during the boot to do this). At the Dos prompt type FORMAT D: /S then hit enter. At picture #15 the operation is complete.

#16 Now, to boot to the Sandisk, at the BIOS screen, change the boot order as shown.

#17 Save the changes, reboot....you are now at a DOS prompt on the Sandisk...it will show up as the C drive when you do this.

This is a relatively safe operation...take your time, check what you're doing against these pictures...you shouldn't have any problems. I've done this several times using Win98....Win ME in it's stock configuration will not let you boot to DOS...I don't know if it would work under Win2000..it probably would. You can now put any DOS rescue programs you have on the Sandisk...remember it is only 16mb.

04-29-2001 14:56:54

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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How-To: Safely edit the Registry....Face it, there's probably no 100% safe way to do this, unless you're a 100% expert. But you can get a little help here and there. The MS program TweakUI does just that, but what it can do is rather limited. Here's the best program I ever found to do some serious tweaking rather safely....and it's free:

http://www.zdnet.com/downloads/stories/info/0,,0011C2,.html

X-Setup can do hundreds of tweaks, it's rather easy to perform, and comes with detailed instructions. One tweak that impressed me is under System/Misc/Windows 9x-ME/CPU boost. When enabled provides a cpu boost to the fore-ground application. other tweaks are just as impressive....I suggest doing these mods one-at-a-time to see the results better....remember to re-boot to apply each tweak.

05-07-2001 05:03:35

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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I hope these How-To posts are proving useful to readers of this BBS. Here's a How-To I'd like to see...detailed with pictures: How-To boot straight to a DOS prompt in ME. I know there are progs to do this....I haven't been successful yet with any I've tried. ckbone
05-07-2001 05:29:22

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) Greenspark
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Have you tried this one:

http://www.geocities.com/mfd4life_2000/

Ya gotta like how MS hides DOS, sort of an "out of sight, out of mind" approach to OS'es...

05-07-2001 05:41:12

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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Yeah Greenspark, that's one I tried....Managed to crash ME big-time. I'm really looking for someone who has done it successfully, and is willing to write a detailed How-To.
05-07-2001 14:34:28

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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How-To enclose your hard drive for external use: To do this I've used a small IBM enclosure called a "caddy". They're used in Thinkpads to make the drives easily removable/swapable. Here are some photos of my setup...temporary for now:

http://photos.yahoo.com/ckbone63123

These caddies are available in at least two sizes. The larger one(17mm) you see mounted, will hold a 17mm drive. These came in Thinkpads #755 and earlier. After model #760 they were thinner (12mm). The neat thing about these caddies is that they are totally shielded with an inner aluminum liner. You only need to cut a slot in one end for your IDE cable..shown in picture#6. You can find these things on E-Bay.....If you need a hard drive, you could buy one with a caddy. Without a drive they usually go for about $10. Here's a link to a current seller:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1234796891

You can mount the drive anywhere...The one in picture #1 is attached with velcro. Having an external drive has many advantages...not the least of which is the removal of another source of heat from the case.

05-07-2001 18:16:10

New MessageExternal Caddies (modified 0 times) Greenspark
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ckbone, one thing you didn't need to do with your setup: cut the casing at the bottom. The drives mount in these caddies upside down - on pic #5 we should be seeing the bottom of the drive, not the top. Put the clear or black plastic insert between the drive and the metal casing and the mini-IDE connector will line up with the existing hole - you *might* want to trim it a little. I have two of these cases with a drive in each and they'll button up without any mods, but would close a little tighter with a minor amount of dremelling.
05-08-2001 05:40:00

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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Performance tweaking using X-Setup: Using the X-Setup utility (link a few posts up) here are the four main setting changes I made that worked, that definately made the whole system faster. Note I'm doing this on a K62-400 I-Opener, V4b with 128meg ram. Here are pictures:

http://photos.yahoo.com/ckbone63123

#1 CPU Boost...Real Time/Power User. This setting will give a CPU priority boost to the fore-ground application.
#2 Swapfile usage....enable. This will make maximum usage of available ram before the swapfile is used. Ram is much faster.
#3 General Memory Usage...unload dlls directly. This will help free up ram.
#4 DMA buffer....change to 64. This will have a beneficial effect on the entire system.

These are the only performance tweaks I've tried so far, they all work for me. If you have less than 128meg ram, the swapfile change may not work very well..try it anyway. If you find any other changes that work for you, please report back.

05-08-2001 18:03:43

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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FWIW ... If you're having trouble getting my Yahoo Photo Album page to load, remember Yahoo is California based, and due to their stupid energy policies of the last 20 years, they now are suffering power outages. My power comes from the safe, clean, reliable Callaway Nuclear power plant. ( I also have stock in the company)
05-08-2001 18:22:07

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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In Win98, Win ME, and Win2k there are Standard Performance Settings which must be changed from default to achieve maximum performance. Here they are:

http://photos.yahoo.com/ckbone63123

#1 In the BIOS settings/Chipset set the SDRAM Cycle Lenght to "2". This makes better use of modern faster ram. If you have slow ram, after making this change, your system may not boot...just change back.

#2 In Device manager/System make certain only the Primary IDE and the VIA Busmaster Controller show up. If you see the Secondary IDE here....your system is being slowed down. Try installing the latest VIA 4-in-1 drivers. Try to enable DMA for your hard drive....this really makes a big difference.

#3 In device manager again, system properties, performance, make sure only the A drive is in the compatability mode. If any other drive shows up here, your system will be running very slow. Again try the newest VIA drivers.

#4 Under File System properties, set the computer role as a Network Server...This can be enabled with the stock 32mb of ram.

#5 If you're using ME, under trouble-shooting, disable System Restore....this speeds up the OS.

There are other setting changes to speed up the system...but try these first...maybe one-at-a time to see some real improvement.

05-13-2001 11:21:42

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) laserfan
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I do wish now to use-up just a little bit of bandwidth to formally thank everyone on this board, but especially ckbone and GWIZAH, as I am with this post now finally, fully, "on-the-air" w/my Win98lite (chubby) iOpener. It's been something of a long journey, wading for hours thru hundreds (thousands?) of posts, but this thread and GWIZAH's how-to page put me over the top and gave me the confidence to finally take the thing apart and get this to work.

I did run into a couple of problems, as when I took my notebook HD (from ComputerGeeks) into the office to use one of our PCs there to load the SW--the PC I used needed to have both the CD-ROM and the IO harddrive on the same IDE channel (had to move some cables around). Until I got this right the CD-ROM appeared as the C: drive. (?) I also realized after I'd reassembled everything that I should have thermal-greased the tennmax fan to the WinChip2, so I had to go thru the disassemble/reassemble process once more than I should have.

But since then it's been pretty straightforward, though on balance I don't think I'd recommend this to someone w/no experience nosing around the Device Manager and installing drivers from odd locations (i.e. other than an install floppy or CD!). But today I'm running a NetGear EA101 USB Ethernet adapter, so now I have full access to my network and files (and the Internet!), and I have my Sandisk all ready-to-load the Ultimate Boot Disk utilities (or whatever) thanks to ckbone, and I gotta tell ya it's been a blast to get to this point w/this little iOpener. Oh, and my 98lite install resulted in a way-cool 98lite Professional startup window, and honestly this little guy seems plenty quick; dunno if it's subjective given my excitement to have W98SE running, or just how real the WinChip2 and 98lite improvements are. But hopefully in the future I will be able to contribute here rather than lurk-and-learn as I have for several months.

Thanks again!!!!!!

p.s. BTW for any newbies who may read this it's been interesting to me, as I have methodically taken this machine to the 'net one-step-at-a-time, to observe how much the addition of a network device adds to the W98 startup process. I'd heard/knew this before, but while initially the IO booted from scratch in only a few seconds the Network stuff triples/quadruples this significantly and noticeably. I'm sure someone here knows what the heck W98 is doing in this regard, and maybe there are some tweaks possible to lessen the effect, but it's "no big deal" for me as my IO is intended to run all the time, albeit in "Standby" mode mostly...

05-19-2001 07:19:45

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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HiNote Ultra MobileMedia: Here are some photos of the base I hacked in the photo album "I-Opener w/ cdrom". This album is named HiNote MobileMedia.

http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/ckbone63123

You can get these things frequently of E-Bay. This one cost $22 because of a broken plastic part around the interface...normally they go for $35-$75. The cdrom is a Toshiba XM1404b, 6x. It has a standard 44 pin connector and does not require an adapter to use it in any configuration. The Audio board has a pcmcia interface connection to the laptop which sat on it. I never used this board...although if somebody was willing, it would be a good project. You can see the sub-woofer and the two smaller speakers facing forward. I am using the small speakers by directly connecting them to the I-Opener board. They are twice as big as stock and sound much better. If you remove the sub-woofer like I did, remove some internal bracing, a 17mm hard drive will fit inside. This audio board has the name ESS AudioDrive ES688F, with a Yamaha Opal YMF262-M. As you can see the cdrom connects directly to the sound board. Since I never tried to use the board, I cannot comment on how good the complete setup sounds, although the small speakers sound great. The I-Opener stock stand is almost a perfect fit on this base....I've been using the setup for nine months now without problems. This was an easy hack for me...I only had to get Badflash to make me a special IDE cable. Getting the audio board to work, interfacing somehow to the I-Opener, would not be so easy.

05-20-2001 11:16:21

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) GWIZAH
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Laserfan,

I appreciate the kind words! Sounds like you went through the same problems I did, after all the little picture page I put up was by no means my first install on the I-op. Sadly, I had to sell it to a friend to keep up my "hobby" with the gateway touchpad. Oh well, it was fun for awhile, I think Im going to pick up another gct eventually. CKbone by far has added the coolest set of pics and info, Have a bud CKbone!

05-21-2001 21:34:39

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) laserfan
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After struggling myself for many hours with posts on this board and my own Win98SE IO, I finally have at least the Backlight issue solved. Where before it was only switchable in the BIOS, I can now use the Display cpl or Power Mgmt cpl to reliably set the time-out, and no blinking cursor, no residual backlight, it just blacks-out as it should. I had experimented with several video drivers, including the download here, and the one that works for me (I have a v1 BIOS IO w/Trident Cyberblade i7) is here:

ftp://ftp.newmmi.com/via/

ftp://ftp.newmmi.com/via/5482-10.zip

Note I found a couple of other "5482-10.ZIP" files and they were broken. This one works, and is labeled as "Integrated Trident Blade 3D Video Driver" from early 1999.

Another SanDisk video problem I'd had, which involved a.) Scandisk not visible following a bad shutdown, and b.) Ultimate Boot Disk not appearing properly ("Video mode not recognized" or some such error) on SanDisk boot were fixed when I tripped across a mp3boombox post where the "mode co80" command was buried. I copied mode.com from /windows/command/ to the root of the SanDisk, entered the command into the autoexec.bat, and now have these problems solved as well. Note BTW that the Ult. Boot Disk has lots of slick utilities associated with it, which once I figured out how to get it to run on the SanDisk (I had to change all its C:\ drive references to D:\ and A:\ drive references to C:\) has lots of cool stuff on it to play with.

Now I'd like to get the lasagna fan to quiet down, and since apparently the circuitry to shut it off does not exist on the IO, I think I'm just gonna replace it with a heat sink and see what the WinChip2 thinks about it.

05-21-2001 21:35:50

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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Thanks guys....I started this How-To topic and that photo page to make I-Opener mods more easily understood by everyone. Not every reader of this BBS has an equal level of expertise in computers. I try to make my posts understandable to the largest number of readers.

I am aware of the video problem with the DOS screen on the sandisk. But since I rarely use DOS it never bothered me. Laserfan...could you explain the exact procedure you used to fix this issue. You copied the mode.com file fron the Win98 directory to the Sandisk. Then you edited the Auto exe on the sandisk to use this mode...How exactly?

05-22-2001 03:47:17

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) laserfan
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ckbone, getting the video to work was as simple as copying the MODE.COM file from the HD C:\WINDOWS\COMMAND directory to the root level of the SanDisk (D:\), and creating or modifying the AUTOEXEC.BAT file on the SanDisk (D:\AUTOEXEC.BAT) to include it i.e.:

@echo off
mode co80
...etc

Note that's C-oh-eight-zero. Now when you change the BIOS to boot from the SanDisk, the D: drive becomes the C: drive (and the hard disk becomes D:\ drive).

The next thing I'm going to try is System Commander to see if it will automate the process of selecting which drive (HD or SanDisk) to boot from. If you have Boot Magic (included w/either or both of PowerQuest Partition Magic & Drive Image utils) this should work also, though as I recall it doesn't have the options of Sys Commander, which BTW I saw somewhere for $10 recently (maybe CompGeeks?). It puts-up a selection screen to boot to different OSes (in my case Win98 vs. DOS) and auto-times-out to either choice as you see fit. Haven't used it for a while, but I used to use it to switch between all of DOS, Japanese DOS, Win95, Win98, and NT.

05-22-2001 04:49:02

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) laserfan
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System Commander doesn't work, at least my version does not, cuz it has to be loaded from floppy disk. So I used Boot Magic (free w/Partition Magic), loaded it from CD over the network, and it works great. Now on startup I'm presented with a selection screen to boot from either the Hard Disk (Win98) or the SanDisk (DOS & utils) which defaults to Win98 if I don't respond w/in x secs (I set at 2). This is much easier than rebooting to the BIOS and booting again, and then changing it back later!!!

I also split my HD into 2 partitions w/PM, and with Drive Image on my SanDisk made a backup of the entire C: drive onto the 2nd partition which I labeled Backup.

05-24-2001 19:07:48

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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I'm glad to see someone using these Powerquest progs...Partition Magic, Boot Magic, Drive Image. They are invaluable to computer users, even more so to I-Opener users. There is one thing you should know about Boot Magic.....In order to work, it modifies the MBR (master boot record) of your hard drive...much like Easy BIOS and other programs of this type. If you format the drive, these MBR changes are still there...they are not removed by a standard format. And if not removed, and the drive's MBR restored to default, these MBR mods can cause problems with later OS installs. The technique for a MBR restore is easy....at a DOS prompt type fdisk \mbr (I think that's it) hit enter. If the MBR restore is successful, you will see nothing happen (no error messages). If I got that command wrong, somebody correct it. I suspect a modified MBR is one reason for a difficult hard drive install. Other than that one thing, Boot Magic works perfectly with every OS I ever tried it on. The Boot-Magic screen on my dual-booting I-Opener, gives me a choice of DOS (sandisk), Win 98, or Win2k. All this without any BIOS changing.
05-26-2001 07:10:43

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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Here's a question for someone...Has anyone ever managed to dual-boot Win98 and ME off one hard drive? I think it may be possible using the sandisk for DOS, and using Partition Magic to hide the first partition, then installing the 2nd OS to partition#2, later un-hiding the first partition, then using Boot Magic to boot ME or Win98. A good project for someone.
05-26-2001 07:29:25

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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Tired of that large keyboard that looks out-of-place in front of your I-Opener? Here's a keyboard hack that has many possibilities. The dauphin keyboard as is comes is a very small package. But if you take it's case apart, it's even smaller. Pictures here (Dauphin hacked):

http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/ckbone63123

When you take it out of the case it's dimensions are 3/8 x 3 1/4 x 9 1/4. It easily mounts on top of the I-Opener base or with a little more hacking could slide out in a drawer from under the base. It has a sturdy metal back and will work in this hacked form without trouble. You could mount the small interface board under or behind the base. It works well for occasional use, particularly if you have small hands (I don't). The possibilities of this keyboard hack are endless, use your imagination.......

05-26-2001 14:59:21

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) BubbaDog56
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ckbone,

I picked up one of these locally a while back for my iO, and really like it. It can be a challenge typing sometimes, but the iO is the 'kitchen computer' so the small footprint is worth it. The idea of mounting it in the iO base is kinda intriguing. Directron has them for $29 each or 5 for $120 if folks wanted to get together on a buy. http://shop.store.yahoo.com/directron/dauphin.html

Here's another unique use for them: http://www.extremecomputing.com/xcom/calhidkey.html
They seem to be popular for 'wearable' computer configurations....

B'Dog

05-26-2001 15:41:35

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) YouBecha
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ckbone, BTW your photo page is great!

There have been many times I had a question, and a picture would have solved rather than hours of guessing and rebuilding.

Thanx


http://www.geocities.com/mr_bubba_zanetti/
05-27-2001 04:57:57

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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Here's a few pictures of a Curtis Power Control Center, model# ASPF8P. I found a big pile of these on a clearance table at a local Walmart. Cost: $40. I'm not sure what the original price was.

http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/ckbone63123

I've seen plenty of these things before, but this is the first one I ever found with a built-in USB hub, powered by an internal 5v power supply. So there's only one power cord going to this Power center. Amazingly, It is the same beige as the stock stand, and the width is EXACTLY the same. It is 1.5" high and 11.5" deep. As you can see the thing with a Dauphin keyboard on it, does not take up any extra desktop space. If you would take out some of the internal AC outlet wiring and switches, you would have room for a hard drive and/or a cdrom....or anything else for that matter. Lites all over the thing, three different color front faces, it is a good-looking package. It had a modem surge protector, six outlets, and a $35,000 equiptment warrenty....probably wouldn't apply if you hacked it.......

06-03-2001 16:31:37

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) laserfan
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I realized today (understand I just recently hacked-into this IO w/Win98SE) that I've been thinking about the use of the IO slightly backwards: I'd always thought "it's a low-powered computer, use it like a thin client or something" and instead I'm convinced now that it is fast-becoming the center of our email and web-surfing universe. It is powered-on all the time, and is located in the most convenient, heavily-used spot in the house (in our case, the wet bar!) and now runs VNC in the "service" mode w/other PCs accessing it via VNC Clients. This method has a couple benefits, including "all email history in one place" (on the IO), but also, because the IO is 800x600, and other PCs on our home network are 1024x768, the IO looks just fine as a VNC window inside the other PC. Cool.

I also have to boast (again?) about the decision to go the EZ route w/CPU upgrade, and get just a WinChip2, cuz this has allowed me to run fanless, and the HD itself is quiet enough that I can call this machine completely "silent" at all times, unless it's announcing the arrival of mail! And it is plenty fast enough for email and web-surfing. Should I admit I'm not into games?

BTW if you don't know about VNC, well it's just possibly (no, probably)the greatest free software of all time. "Rush out in a surfing frenzy", or, wait a sec, just click here for full details:

http://www.uk.research.att.com/vnc/

I suppose I hafta ask a question while I'm posting: has anyone figured out how to use, or is it even POSSIBLE to use, the IO's Microphone? Seems I did a search on this a few weeks ago and came up dry--sorry if it's been discussed and I missed it. Maybe some kind soul can point-the-way. I'm thinking about using this as a telephone device next...

06-05-2001 21:08:57

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ckbone
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There was a long thread some time ago about using the std modem as an answering machine. No-one was ever able to do it. I tried myself using at least three different softwear programs. It was concluded that the ActionTec modem was hardwear disabled for any answering machine usage. Anyone who knows any more on this subject, please reply.
06-06-2001 03:53:38

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) laserfan
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I was thinking not about the modem per se, but about my broadband connection to the Internet.

I've never paid much attention to Internet telephones before, but this high-speed always-On connection has me thinking about it.

06-06-2001 04:45:14

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) Programmer
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The mic has worked just fine for me.. though it picks up vibration in the case rather well also..

it MAY need to be enabled in the volume panel; options->properties->recording->OK ; microphone

06-06-2001 06:54:16

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) ttn1
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The microphone in the IO is pretty crappy. I just opened it up and took out the supplied mic. Soldered 2 lead wires from the connection to a mini mic jack. Now I can plug in a headset for voice control of my GPS program. I couldn't get the internal mic to work at all with voice recognition. Haven't tried using it as an internet phone yet, but that should be the next step.

ttn1

06-06-2001 07:13:02

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) laserfan
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Geez, I committed TWO cardinal sins, and you guys let me off-the-hook! First, I didn't Search and indeed one thread said "works fine", and second, I didn't bother to try it myself. It turns out of course that it works fine, and was trivially easy to check w/98's Sound Recorder.

I only had to enable the Yamaha audio device in the Volume Control. In addition, there is an Advanced option which enables a Mic +20db setting which cures the low sound level problem reported in one old thread and suggested again here.

You guys have to be tougher on morons who don't do their homework!!!

06-06-2001 18:33:40

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) BubbaDog56
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If we were tough on morons, we'd never be able to post ourselves, hehehehe.....

B'Dog

06-06-2001 19:20:47

New MessageRE:I-Opener How-TO (modified 0 times) *SF*
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I'LL Drink to That * StarFish * besides it's Spring.
06-06-2001 19:24:35

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