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K6-III+ @ " 1.6 volts "
Need 1.6 volts in Ver. 5

New MessageK6-III+ @ " 1.6 volts " (modified 0 times) tomatom
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Bought a K6-III + @ 400 ATZ at a swap-meet---never seen " 1.6 v. / 3.3 v. "
on a K6 before---i have BF's resistors and plan to use conductive epoxy
to short 3X multiplier---then s/w to adjust FSB + multiplier on boot.
How do i get 1.6 v. ( or up to 1.8 v. ) and NOT 2.0 using my dip switch.?
Has anyone ever tried a 1.6 v. K6 in an i-O ???
Any mobos go as low as 1.6 v. ???
Any helps/ideas appreciated & thanks...
11-27-2001 09:02:59

New MessageRE:K6-III+ @ (modified 0 times) Ragnar1
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Do you know what version I-opener you have? That would detetermine which is the easiest way to drop Vcore below 2.0V. Anyway you do it, though involves a voltage divider, either creating one with two resistors, or replace know resistors on the board. If you have a V4b or V5, then its a simple matter of replacing one resistor. On my V4b, the resistors that determine 2.0V are 25m and 100m ohms. The equation is 2.5*( 100/(25 + 100)) to give 2.0Vcore. To get 1.6Vcore change the 25m ohm resistor to 50m ohms and this will give you 1.66V = 2.5*(100/(50 + 100)) which is less than .1V difference that what you want. The 25m ohm is either R342 or R343, but I would have to take apart my V4b to be sure.
11-27-2001 15:11:28

New MessageRE:K6-III+ @ (modified 0 times) Ragnar1
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Tomatom,
I just had my V4b open and the values for R342 and R343 are 25k ohm and 100k ohm. They are located at the top right corner of the sodimm socket. Voltage measured at the top of R342 is 2.5V. Measured at the bottom of R342 is 2.0V. When you have yours apart, measure voltage at the top and bottom of R342. Measure the resistance across both R342 and R343. If your measurements read the same then replacing R342 with a 50k ohm resistor would work and give you a voltage of ~1.66V. But that resistor is so tiny. An easier way would to solder a 100k ohm resistor in parallel with R343. By my calculations a 100k ohm resistor will drop the voltage the same as replacing R342 with a 50k ohm resistor. This is also easier because you don't have to remove anything, and the soldering is easier. Just solder one end of the resistor to the top of R343 and then the other end to any local ground, i.e., any of the big silver pads that the screws that hold the heatsink or radio frequence shield. this should get you the voltage you want. But ALWAYS test the voltage before you plug in the processor.
That is the only thing that you have to do to get 1.66V for your processor. But if you want to go for higher speeds that the processor is capable of, then follow Badflash's methods descrived in the Moderated Technical Section. You can also get the other resistors that you will need from him.
Happy Hacking, proceed at your own risk.
Ragnar
11-28-2001 23:11:28

New MessageRE:K6-III+ @ (modified 0 times) Ragnar1
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And by-the-way, the I-opener default multiplier is 3X. If you change the fsb to 100mhz then this will give you a 300mhz boot speed, the highest that the mobile processor can boot from. Then use k6clk.exe to go higher. The top speed that will be stable depends on several variables, how you deal with the extra heat being the main one, imho.
11-28-2001 23:18:01

New MessageRE:K6-III+ @ (modified 0 times) tomatom
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Very nice ! Ragnar ! & thanx---i'm planning on putting the K6-III+ in my V5---
BUT , i thought the default was 2X , not 3X , because the Rise-cpu runs @ 200 mhz
with the FSB @ 100 mhz---is this WRONG ???
My V3 with a Winchip 2 runs @ 66 mhz X3 = 200 mhz
So that's why i figured to lock-down the 3X on the mobo.
If i get 450 mhz i'll be happy---would like to find a fix to FSB s/w under
Win XP---but that's for later...
11-28-2001 23:44:10

New MessageRE:K6-III+ @ (modified 0 times) Ragnar1
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All version come with a fsb set at 66.7mhz. This way, with the mobile processors you only have to make one of the two changes that the non-mobile processor requires. Just another advantage to having a +.
Ragnar
11-28-2001 23:58:29

New MessageRE:K6-III+ @ (modified 0 times) Ragnar1
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I have my V5 open right now. Strange, but when I test R342 and R343 for resistance, I get 24k for both. But I get 2.5V at the top of R342 and 0V at the top of R343. I get 1.94V at the bottom of both R342 and R343. I didn't test the voltage at the top of R343 on my V4b, but I think you should be able to read some voltage there if the divider is working. I may have to think more on this. For me, though, it a moot point because I am finally getting around to putting in the Datel for this puppy.
12-01-2001 23:06:59

New MessageRE:K6-III+ @ (modified 0 times) mp3boombox
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I run my k6-3 450 at 1.5v with the good old to easy to do DC-DC ADAPTER. Running at 550mhz.
Id run faster but that means I'd have to up the voltage to get 600mhz. That creates more heat. I'm runnin my io as cold as possable.
12-14-2001 15:20:01

New MessageRE:K6-III+ @ (modified 0 times) tomatom
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thanx for the replys , Ragnar1 & mp3boombox ,
which is easier , the added resistor or the
DC to DC voltage converter hack. Also, which
makes more sense for a one-time hack to 1.8 volts ?
you guys are reall y helpful---tom
12-15-2001 16:47:20

New MessageRE:K6-III+ @ (modified 0 times) Ragnar1
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The dc-dc converter runs ~$60. The datel is not hard to put in, but you may not find the 3.3 to 1.8 ready available. If you are just going for stock speed, or a little higher, the the resistor mod is easier, if you find the right resistor and resistor value. I guess it would be a toss up between the two. The parts for one may be cheaper and easier to find, but requires testing to find the right ones. The other may cost more than you want to pay. I have done both, it' a trade of of spending money and not taking much time or spending a little money and hoping you can get lucky in finding the right resistor and resistor value quickly.
12-16-2001 16:46:05

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