IO Lasagna Cooler
4 pos half pitch dip switch (can scavenge from SW3)
.012 ohm smt 1 watt resistor
.13 ohm radial 10 watt wire wound resistor
1/4” wide, 1.5” long 10 mil copper strip for heat sink.
Boot up to CMOS setup (CNTRL-ALT-ESC) and select CHIPSET FEATURES SETUP
SET bank X/X Dram timing to 8 ns
SET SDRAM cycle length to 2
Save & exit
Shut down and remove the power cord.
Remove the CPU
Set up for split voltage:
Remove R60 and R61 upper right side of CPU socket
Solder these 0 ohm resistors at R184 and R185 at lower right of CPU socket
Set up 2v core voltage:
Solder 10K 1/4 watt resistor across solder pads for R343 upper right of SODIMM socket
Set up for 100 Mhz FSB
Remove modem daughter board by removing 4 screws and removing board to gain access to the dip switch area. Be careful of the connector. This may be removed or left connected as long as care is taken not to damage it.
Tin the solder pads for SW2 at the upper right of where the modem board was.
Solder 4 position dip switch in place going 1234 left to right. Solder wick can be used to clean up the connection if solder bridges form. Set 123 to ON and 4 to OFF. Replace modem and connector if needed.
Power up the board and check core voltage at pin 3 of Q16 at the upper left side of the SODIMM socket. Pin 3 is the one closest to the SODIMM socket. This should be 1.9 to 2.1 volts. If not, recheck your work.
Remove the power plug.
Replace the CPU & Lasagna cooler and test for booting to sandisk. It should work at this point.
Remove the power plug.
Add Cooling resistor:
Form the leads to allow the .13 ohm 10 watt resistor to run parallel to the SODIMM socket and reach to pin 3 of Q16. This is a little tricky, but you’ll figure it out. Insulate excess leads with heat shrink tubing.
Heat pin 3 of Q16 and carefully bend it up once the solder melts. Solder one lead of the resistor to the pad and one end to the lead of pin 3 of Q16. This inserts the cooling resistor in series with the drain of Q16. Gently bend the cooling resistor up so it does not rest on the SODIMM socket. This should come in contact with the RF shield when replaced but nothing conducting electricity should be exposed on the resistor.
Add the heat sink:
This is the most tedious part: Solder the 1/4” wide copper strip standing strait up to the tab on Q16 next to C166. Once cool, bend the tab while holding it firm with a needle nose so it is the same height as C166 and goes to the left. This will reduce board temperature by 10 degrees F. Without the heat sink speeds no faster than 400Mhz should be attempted. Temps with no heat sink at 400 are around 158F and with heat sink, the same at 450.
Add your drive, boot to windows and add K6clk.exe 4.5 in the autoexec.bat file to boost to 400 or 450 Mhz before Windows loads. (you need to have this program on your machine too :) )
All V3’s are not made equal. One of mine will not go above 400Mhz, the other has no problem at 450 Mhz. The troublesome one will boot fine up to windows, allow me to log in, and then reboots shortly thereafter.