If I may be so bold to add a few clarifying details...
(Digikey is a great place to get electronic parts... we use them at work for prototype parts all the time. http://www.digikey.com )
RV1/RV2 appear to be self-resetting solid-state fuses... aka: "Poly-Switch". These devices are like a circuit breaker in function, only much faster responding, and self resetting. The USB spec. allows a device to draw 500mA from the host, so these appear to be 0.75A rated devices (thus the "075" marking).
Digikey - MINISMD075CT-ND $0.65 ea.
(possible alternate) MINISMDC075CT-ND
I wouldn't totally neglect the benefit of using some type of fusing device here... be it a normal fuse, or a polyswitch.
That being said... my SMC 2202 adapter (and I imagine most other USB devices) has its own fuse on the PCB... namely "L2" (though incorrectly named!)
The CT44/45/46/47 are actually 10uF (yes, TEN uF) monolithic ceramic capacitors.
I would suggest adding these 2 LARGE caps to insure a quiet VCC. (BTW... these are "1206" case size, Y5V dielectric caps). Digikey #PCC1894CT-ND (they're about $.80 each)
If you can't find them, but can find at least 4.7uF/10V tantalum SMD caps, you could use them in place. The (approximate) equivelant tantalum case size is "EIA A-size" (3.2 x 1.6mm). The closest Digikey has is the 4.7uF/10V - PCS2475CT-ND at $3 for 10 pcs.
Personally, I'll probably adapt small, leaded tantalum caps... I already have them.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Ceramic caps are not polarized... they can be installed end-for-end without concern.
HOWEVER... tantalum are certainly NOT able to be installed "either way"... they must be installed correctly, or they WILL burn up!
I have determined that the "+" terminal of the caps must go toward the BOTTOM edge of the circuit board. (or "-" end towards the TOP of the board)
As far as the 0 Ohm resistors in place of the chip ferrite beads, I would agree that in this case you will not see any problems. Keeping the adapter inside the shielded case solves all related problems that these RFI suppression parts were put there for.
I would say to NOT use silver paint in place of the 0 Ohm resistors, or you run the risk of shorting to a non-related trace that runs between the two pads!
On the Ethernet connector issue, I'll be doing like I saw one of you did... reuse my original receptacle from the adapter, then securely fasten (epoxy!) it to the PCB in place of one of the original RJ11 connectors.
This may be my only post for a while until I get more work done on my firdst unit. I just picked it up last week... after a 7-8 week wait.
Since it's to be a kitchen machine, I'll be leaving the original CPU heat sink alone (totally), mounting the hard drive where the modem was, and the ethernet over by the VIA multi-function chip is. I'll set the HD timeout to something like 1 minute so it will run totally silent except when in use.
Oh... me? I've got 20+ years of EE work, and right now I'm the Engineering Mgr. at an electronics contract design & mfg firm near KC MO.
Don't know about you all, but once my machine is up and running on Win98, I'm sending NPL some more $$$... it cost them FAR more than we paid for it to build (I estimate $250/$300ea in 50k qty), and it's only fair. (we couldn't buy anything close for under $500)
Just my 2 cents worth!
